About 15 years ago, Lori Fusaro was looking online at photos of adoptable dogs and was shocked by how “horrible” many of them were—the photos were dark and the dogs looked scared, with red eyes from a camera flash. So, the Los Angeles-based photographer and life-long animal lover decided to do something about it.

“I thought I had something to offer these rescue groups and shelters, so I started volunteering by taking adoption pictures,” she says. “The most important thing is to capture the spirit and essence of the dog’s personality. If it’s a shy dog who’s more laidback, I want to capture that. If they love toys, running and playing, I want to capture that. If I can show their true personality to help them get a home, that’s just amazing.”

Her efforts have helped countless dogs find forever homes. She’s volunteered for rescue groups including Karma Rescue, Barks of Love, K9 Connection, and Bad Rap, and taken photos for the nonprofit Guide Dogs for the Blind. For the past four years, she’s been a staff photographer for Best Friends Animal Society, which operates the country’s largest no-kill shelter in Kanab, Utah. After adopting a 16-year-old bulldog/pit bull mix named Sunny, she traveled across America taking photos of inspirational senior dogs — including George Clooney’s rescued cocker spaniel, Einstein (pictured) — for the bestselling book “My Old Dog: Rescued Dogs with Remarkable Second Acts.” 

Fusaro, who also takes portraits of family dogs with her company Fusaro Photography, says photographing dogs for a living is her “dream job.”

“I love their zest for living — their joyous, happy nature, and how everything is so exciting and so fun,” she enthuses. “’Oh, we’re going on a car ride? It’s the best thing ever! Oh, a treat? That’s the best thing ever! We’re going on a walk? Best thing ever!’”

Fusaro shares these tips for taking perfect pooch pics:

Get your dog used to your camera or cellphone: “Don’t be afraid to put the camera on the coffee table. Let them sniff it . . . Make sure they’re comfortable with it.”

Be conscious of the background: “There’s nothing worse than an adorable dog picture that has a garbage can or an unmade bed in the background.”

Use natural light: “If you have a big window, move the couch closer to the window facing out, so that when you’re shooting the dog, the natural light is coming in. It makes it really beautiful.”

Get low on the ground — even lie on the floor: “I like having the camera that way so it’s their vision, how they see life.”

Keep treats handy: Fusaro often brings Zuke’s Mini Naturals to shoots: “I don’t like to overfeed them, so those are the perfect little treats. The dogs love them.

Use squeak toys or blow whistles: “The whistles always give that head tilt.”

Photograph their tongues in action: “If I give them a little bit of peanut butter, they’ll stop and lick and lick and lick. I get really good tongue shots with that.”

Shoot close-ups: “You’ve seen newborn pictures where people take pictures of the toes and the fingers. I like to do that with dogs, too: their cute little paws, their nose, their eyes.”

Before you put your photo skills to the test, enjoy these images by Fusaro of senior dogs that she photographed for the book, “My Old Dog: Rescued Pets with Remarkable Second Acts” by Laura T. Coffey. The book spotlights innovative efforts to spring senior dogs from shelters across North America and demonstrates how meaningful it can be to give older animals a second chance.

Have fun fueling the love by taking awesome photos of your dogs! 

Stella was abandoned right before Thanksgiving one year when her owner moved and decided to leave her behind. After she got adopted from a shelter, her new owner marveled at how happy Stella was and how much she relished opportunities to play and go for car rides. (Copyright Lori Fusaro / “My Old Dog”) 

Even though dogs over the age of 6 or 7, like the one pictured here, make fabulous pets, they often represent the highest-risk population at animal shelters across the United States. (Copyright Lori Fusaro / “My Old Dog”) 

Senior dogs Flopsy and Sebastian were rescued from neglect in a backyard. Despite their arthritis, they still loved to play. (Copyright Lori Fusaro / “My Old Dog”)

Sunny fit right in with Lori Fusaro’s other rescue dog, Gabby (right), and she went on to thrive for more than two and a half years until she reached the age of 18 in her new, happy home. Sunny inspired a photography project that ultimately led to the creation of “My Old Dog: Rescued Pets with Remarkable Second Acts.”  (Copyright Lori Fusaro / “My Old Dog”)

Photos courtesy of Lori Fusaro. Check out more of her work at fusarophotography.com. 

Sometimes it’s hard to get motivated to do the dishes when you get home after a long day, let alone get some dog training in. We have all been there, you walk through the door, take off your shoes, catch your breath from a crazy day, and your dog is sitting there staring at you… waiting to go do something. But never fear – when time and motivation are lacking, these easy tips will help you squeeze in some dog training and still get some down time for yourself. Be sure to remember that treats should account for no more than 10% of calories to keep your dog’s diet complete and balanced. Using part of their daily serving of food or low-calorie treats like Zuke’s can be helpful in achieving the training and keeping their nutrition in check.

1. Pajama Training

Pajama training, also known as indoor brainwork, is great for days when you just can’t go for a walk (or just don’t want to!). By adding indoor brainwork games to your daily regimen, you help your dog live a more balanced, healthy life. Spend five or ten minutes teaching your dog a new trick (or the start of one) or spend the same amount of time practicing something they already know.

To help my dogs chill out when I want to chill out, I grab a handful of treats (or a bag in all reality, I have three dogs) and do some fun brainwork games with them. This is also a great way to have kids take part in training, they can come up with a fun trick or make an obstacle course for the dog and lure them through it.

2. Daily Walk Training

I love to watch my dogs run around investigating things and being silly when we go on walks and hikes, but it’s always good to add some training to the adventure. It’s important for our dogs to get their daily physical exercise and brainwork for a good balance, so when you’re done with your walk not only is your dog physically exercised, they are mentally stimulated and ready to relax with you. Now, I’m not saying your whole walk is a training walk, just a few minutes here and there. By intermittently adding training to your walk, you will also keep your dog from going into auto pilot mode and keep them more engaged with you.  

One easy way to incorporate training if your dog walks mostly on leash, is to teach them a new skill on leash. This can include a default sit whenever you stop or take a couple of minutes to revamp leash skills. If you walk your dog off leash, practice recall with the “chase me game” (they chase you, you don’t chase them) or play hide and seek.

3. Daily Manners Training

By practicing manners every day you can help keep your dog on track. Even though they may already know how to do most of the basics, it’s good to have them perform them every day. This will keep them mentally stimulated and wanting to work for you.

Doing a sit/stay at the door may seem simple to us, but what we are asking of them is a great deal of impulse control and focus. Usually going through a door means something fun or exciting is going to happen; to keep them on their toes have them do a sit/stay at every door.

A couple other things you can do: Teach them an “on your bed” while you cook and/or eat dinner (this will help keep them out of the kitchen) and make them work a little for each meal: take a handful of kibble and have them do some tricks.

4. Tummy Rub Training

With tummy rub training you can keep up on a very important skill, all while loving on your dog. To help your dog become more comfortable with touching at the vet, you can practice “vet touch.” I do this almost every night with all my dogs. When they are hanging out with me, in the middle of petting them I will look at their teeth, ears, legs and paws (including in-between the toes). Not only will this help your dog learn that this is a regular occurrence, it gives you a chance to do a once over to look for anything new.

Make the most of the time you have to train your dog. Remember that training with your dog should be fun and doesn’t have to be a time consuming chore. By spending just a few extra minutes playing brainwork games with your pup, you will not only cultivate a stronger bond with your dog, but also maintain foundation behaviors. Now that you have your training protocol covered, sit back and relax with your dog, you both deserve a break. 

As I write this from my home in Colorado, Old Man Winter has (finally!) paid us a visit this year. The leaves are now gone from the trees, a soft blanket of snow has descended upon us, and the thermometer reading has taken a big leap towards “brrrrrrr.” So now that the season has officially changed, what can you do to make sure your dog stays healthy and safe all season long?

Check Those Frosty Paws

After a brisk walk outdoors, make sure to check your dog’s feet. On icy surfaces, ice crystals can accumulate between your dog’s toes, causing a hard, uncomfortable chunk of debris. Brush or rinse off any ice you see. If they have a lot of hair between their toes, I suggest that you keep it trimmed short during the winter months. Also, remember to regularly examine the pads of the feet. Just like our heels can crack and bleed in the colder, drier months, so can your dog’s! If your dog has this problem, consider properly fitted boots or a topical pad protectant that can help protect those feet.

Mind the Undercarriage

Just like ice can accumulate between the toes, dogs can also get ice accumulation on the hair of their armpits, chest and belly. Consider wiping these areas down after a walk. Sidewalks and city streets often have deicing salt or antifreeze, which can stick to this ice and hair. Dogs will lick these areas and ingest the chemicals. The deicers can cause serious gastrointestinal problems and antifreeze — even in tiny amounts — can be extremely toxic to the kidneys.

Always Be Prepared

In bad weather, it’s always a good idea for us to be prepared for the unexpected. Bad roads, alternate routes, and sudden changes of plans can leave us without the things we may need. I recommend checking out 8 Tips for Winter Hiking with Your Dog to give you a few ideas of what you might stash in your car in case of the unexpected.

Stay Inside When Temps Drop

Is it so cold outdoors that after only a few minutes you feel chilled? Your dog most likely will too. Dogs bred for colder climates — think huskies and malamutes — may be able to stay out for longer, but even they have limits on what they can stand when the temperature drops. If it’s too cold for you, then it’s too cold for them. The short-coated breeds like dachshunds, Chihuahuas, boxers, and pit bull terriers get cold very quickly. You may think that coats and sweaters are goofy luxury items for the dogs of the rich and famous, but they are essential if you have one of these breeds and plan to spend much time outdoors with them. When your dog is outside, are they shivering? Do their ears and feet feel extra cold? Are they acting weak or lethargic? Then they might be suffering from hypothermia. Bring them in and warm them up ASAP! They can progress to the point of severe hypothermia, coma, and even death if not treated in time. In addition, extremely low temperatures can predispose your dog to frostbite in their extremities. I’m sorry to sound so discouraging, but this is very important if you live in a cold part of the world. When in doubt, bring them back inside with you.

Identification and Monitoring

Cold temperatures and snow can mask odors. If you get separated from your dog when visibility is low, he or she may have a tough time finding their way back to you. Make sure the identification tag on their collar is up-to-date with your current contact information. Also consider a microchip to have as a backup means of identification and a way for you to be reunited with your dog should they become lost.

Winter Weight

Last but not least, I’ve seen many people feed their dog more during the winter months with the thought that an extra layer of fat may keep them more comfortable. This isn’t a particularly helpful means of staying warm. And remember, any extra weight they put on now will have to be taken off next spring. This is a lot of work, not to mention that extra weight puts dogs at higher risk for arthritis discomfort, orthopedic injuries, and diabetes. Just share with them a few tasty (but low calorie!) Chicken Mini Naturals and they’ll stay trim and healthy throughout the winter season.

Cover image by Maria Schultz. For more adventures, follow @sup_with_pup on Instagram. 

So you want your dog to be a mountain bike dog, follow these steps and your dog could be ready to shred some gnarly single tracks this spring.

Here is my quick guide to getting your dog ready to be a mountain bike dog.

1. Physically fit:  

First things first, check with your dog’s veterinarian to ensure these kinds of activities will be a good fit for your pup. Your pup needs to be ready to run, and if he/she has never done anything close to running alongside a bike, then that means start slow! Start with a short run/bike ride around the neighborhood slowly build up to longer and longer rides or runs, go on hikes get your dog used to the trail, going up rocks, loose gravel, and sand. Swimming is a great work out too, even a good game of Frisbee or fetch is another great way to get your dog physically fit. Also, take into consideration your dog’s age and breed. Older dogs are going to fatigue faster than a 2-year-old, and take in if you have a short snout dog where they can overheat easily if it’s too warm out or exercised to hard.  The best rule of thumb is to test your dog out on some short bike rides and see how he or she seems to feel afterward and the next day.  

If the dog seems to still be ready for more, then gradually extend the rides you take them on.  Age is another thing to remember, a 6-month-old puppy is NOT ready to run with a mountain bike they are still growing, and their growth plates have not closed yet.

**Remember to always consult with your veterinarian before undergoing any strenuous activities and puppies should never run single tracks till growth plates are done growing and they are cleared by your veterinarian.

2. Training:

Train, train, and TRAIN!  Having a great mountain bike dog doesn’t happen overnight. Goose has had lots of training and we have worked very hard to build a reliable recall and basic obedience commands that he will listen to on and off leash, he also knows to stay away from the tires of the bike and knows to either be far enough ahead of the bike or stay behind the bike. He doesn’t dart in front of the bike and he has a command I use to send him forward “go” my version of “mush” I guess. Again, go slow you want to make mountain biking a positive fun experience for your pup.  

If your dog is nervous of the bike or the sound it makes, (say shifting gears) use treats and go slow every time your pup is brave give a treat to him/her, go slowly and always end on a good note and be positive. Short rides around the neighborhood is different than on the trail but still great training none the less. I use a leash (not attached to the bike) and hold my pup while I ride my bike around the neighborhood or park.  

You’re moving faster now, and prey drive might kick in and your pup might see something fun to chase, if that happens slow down and get off the bike and settle your pup down use a treat or a toy to redirect his or her attention back to you. Then start again.  

Once you are pros at riding around the park/schools or neighborhood with distractions it’s time to take it to the trails. You can start with hiking off leash and teaching your dog the rules of the trail and to stay on the trail and not run off after a bunny or deer. Use treats/toy and positive recommencement to show your dog how awesome it is to be with you! Then once you feel like your dog has a reliable recall and will stay with you off leash. Add your mountain bike, take your time go to a place where it is ok to have your dog off leash and take your time go slow reinforcing all the behaviors you want and have trained for. Remember it takes time, don’t give up!

3. Trail etiquette:

This is important to remember, you might be sharing the trail with hikers, other mountain bikers, and horses. You don’t want your dog jumping up or barking at hikers and you wouldn’t want your dog doing that to horses either! Bikers here in AZ are to yield to all (hikers and horses) so when we see hikers or horses we pull off to the trail and call Goose to us keeping him near the bikes until the hiker or horses pass. Also, respect the wildlife, don’t let your dog go off trail and chase bunnies, lizards or deer if he gets into the habit of that the next encounter might not be so forgiving such as a skunk or rattlesnake. 

4. Breaks:

Ripping down a single track is awesome but remember your pup is working hard if not harder running the whole time! Breaks in the shade for water are critical here in the AZ desert you don’t want your pup overheating or hurting himself. We break for water regularly when we get a drink, Goose gets one too. I make sure I bring his collapsible bowl. I know some dogs are great at drinking out of the hydration pack but Goose wastes too much water doing that, so I fill up his bowl and he gets every drop. If we stop for a longer break and we grab a snack for us I always pack some Mini Naturals it gives him enough energy to keep going and gives me peace of mind knowing he is working so hard.

5. Paws:  

Goose has boots that he will wear if his pads of his paws start hurting or if he gets an injury. For the most part, he has very tough pads and running around in the desert is nothing to him. We also keep nails trimmed up, long nails can be problematic and can result in an injury. Remember each dog is different, and it may be more challenging or take longer to get some dogs to adapt to the booties.  Just keep an eye out for limping, and make sure to check their paws after a ride for cactus needles or small cuts. We always carry a comb and tweezers for cactus.

6. Clean Up:

Leave no trace and always carry poop bags or a plastic bag to clean up after your dog. No one wants to hike or ride through a big pile of dog poop. Leave the trails as you found them.

7. Have Fun:

Go out, hit the single tracks and have some fun! Mountain biking with your pup is a fun way to exercise together, try to stick to these guidelines and you and your dog will have an awesome time on the trail, enjoying nature. 

“Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.”

– Albert Einstein  

Camping is part of a long list of adventures that are a zillion times better when shared with a dog. There’s nothing like spending a day hiking or swimming, eating dinner by starlight and snuggling with your dog in a cozy tent, and then waking up and doing it all over again the next day.

Of course, most dogs love the outdoors, but all of our dogs are individuals. Some are ready to abandon the couch and hit the trails, while others might feign disdain at pine needles floating in their water bowl. The range of camping experiences are as varied as our dogs — which is right for you and your pup? 

Backcountry Camping

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” – John Muir

Heading into the backcountry is the choice of many nature lovers. You carry a backpack with as little weight as possible into a primitive site ideally in the middle of nowhere. You pitch a small tent, purify water from a stream, hang your food and toiletries from a nearby tree to avoid a bear wandering into your campsite, use a shovel if you need a bathroom, and bring lots of resealable bags to pack out any garbage since it’s all about leaving no trace.

You might need your dog to pitch in by carrying her own kibble and Zuke’s Dog Treats in a doggy backpack since every ounce can feel like a pound when you’re on, say, mile seven of an uphill trek. So obviously, backcountry excursions are best for physically fit dogs so be sure to check with your veterinarian regardless of the age of your pup.

Backcountry camping takes some careful planning, but the chance to be alone together in nature is infinitely rewarding. Your dog can run around off-leash and not be in violation of campground policies (though you’ll still need to keep your dog from chasing wildlife and keep small dogs close in case of predators). In the backcountry, dogs can bark their heads off at real or imagined squirrels without upsetting any neighbors, since ideally, you won’t have any. You can even howl at the moon together when it rises. (Seriously, if you’ve never howled with your dog, give it a try!)

Car Camping

“Whatever form it takes, camping is earthy, soul enriching and character building, and there can be few such satisfying moments as having your tent pitched and the smoke rising from your campfire as the golden sun sets on the horizon — even if it’s just for a fleeting moment before the rain spoils everything.” – Pippa Middleton

There’s nothing like the grandeur of nature. There’s also nothing like having a cooler of beer nearby after a day of hiking. That’s where car camping comes in.

Staying at an established campground where you pitch a tent near your car is ideal when you’re working hard all week and can only escape into the woods (or desert, lake, or beach) for the weekend. It doesn’t take as much time and preparation as backcountry camping — you can have a camping box with cooking utensils, a pet first aid kit and other necessities packed and ready to go between trips. Just double check your camping checklist, toss everything in your vehicle, and go. If there’s no fire ban, you can stop for firewood on the way (or keep some in your truck).

Car camping is a great choice for social dogs who will find the sights and smells of other campers delightful. A nervous Chihuahua who barks her brains out anytime she hears a noise or sees someone walk past your campsite won’t love car camping, but a happy-go-lucky retriever will think she’s found heaven. And it’s perfect for puppies, as long as they’ve had all their rounds of vaccines, who need to be socialized to this new experience so that they’ll be camping buddies for life. 

Glamping

“Is that weird, taking my Louis Vuitton bag camping?” – Jessica Simpson

Back in the day, it seemed like RV “camping” was the height of comfort to be found in a campground.

People could park and stay inside their air conditioned vehicle, popping microwave popcorn and watching TV while running their noisy generators (potential proximity to an RV remains the biggest downside to car camping).

But recreational vehicles have nothing on the rise of “glamping” or glamourous camping. I admit, I’m not an expert on this topic. The closest I’ve come to glamping is being on the Kickstarter waitlist for the infamous “Coolest Cooler” campaign since 2014. (A cooler with a built-in blender? Some things have to be seen to be believed…)

Glamping is in a category of its own for a reason. Sometimes it involves signing on with a tour company that will cook gourmet meals for you while you recline in the comfort of an enormous tent — pitched by someone else — on a mattress filled with cotton instead of air. Repeat glampers might invest in teardrop trailers that can off-road and feature necessities like rooftop bedrooms, solar showers and espresso machines.  

Glamping is sometimes dismissed as not being “hardcore,” but who really cares? It gets more people outside and can be an opportunity for seniors or people with disabilities to enjoy time outdoors with their dogs. Glamping can be a boon to dogs, too — older or injured dogs with mobility issues can benefit from a ramp into a cozy trailer or the comfort of a soft bed, and timid dogs will be able to retreat to the security of a big tent. Even a delicately coiffed Shih Tzu or pampered poodle could enjoy glamping — and think of the photo ops!

For some, it’s even a way a life: “vanlife.” This is the coolest form of glamping — people travel and live in conversion vans outfitted with comforts like appliances, wood flooring, solar panels and insulation. This isn’t living “in a van down by the river!” like Chris Farley’s “Saturday Night Live” character. These folks have modified their rides in order to spend as much time as possible exploring the country with their pups by their side. And wouldn’t most dogs love to spend life on the road with their humans?

The Bottom Line

There is no “best” kind of camping — it all comes down to personal preference. Pick the one that inspires you to head out on an adventure with your dog and have fun!

#ZukesPack trailblazer Bryce LaDuc also contributed images to this post. Follow her adventures at @laducb.

Summer brings a plethora of outdoor activities to enjoy with your furry companions. I would like to offer — from a veterinarian’s perspective — a few ideas to help keep your dog happy and healthy all summer long.

Lions, Tigers, Bears…and Porcupines, Oh My!

Slow-moving and almost irresistible to curious canines, porcupines can bring an abrupt end to your hike or backpacking expedition. Seldom does a dog in a porcupine encounter end up with fewer than a dozen quills embedded in his or her face, nose, mouth, and throat. The quills have barbed ends, which means that they are difficult (and painful!) to remove. A quilled dog needs to be taken to the vet for examination and maybe sedation, quill removal, and antibiotics.

Other animals such as deer, skunks, and snakes may also be potential threats to your pup:  

• Protective maternal does defending their fawns and breeding bucks can be aggressive. Kicks and antler-related wounds tend to be critical injuries.
• Skunks are a nuisance from their odor alone, but a dose of spray at close distance can cause eye and lung irritation and potentially anemia from a toxic reaction to the compounds in the spray.
• Rattlesnake bites are very painful and can be deadly when on a dog’s face or neck. Ask your veterinarian about the appropriateness of a rattlesnake vaccine for your dog. These may help reduce the severity of a bite from several species of rattlers.

Most states’ Divisions of Wildlife have rules against unleashed dogs chasing wildlife, and if your dog is caught doing so, you can be fined. This is where good vocal control — the recall — of your dog is very important. 

Work on the Recall

While on the trail, and especially if off-leash, dogs can get easily distracted by all of the wondrous smells and sounds that are waiting to be discovered. They can also get into trouble! It is crucial to be able to call your dog back from other hikers or even the edge of a steep drop! Good trail manners are important for both etiquette and safety reasons. If there’s any doubt about your dog’s ability to recall no matter what is distracting them, it is safest to keep your pet on-leash.

Treat the Feet

Pups that spend most of their time on soft surfaces like grass and carpet have very delicate pads on their feet. They need time to get adjusted to rougher surfaces by starting with short hikes on softer soil and gradually working up to longer stretches on gravel and rock trails. Also, be aware that pavement and rocks get hot enough to burn! If it is too hot to stand on with your own bare feet, then it is too hot for your dog’s paws as well.

Hot Dogs

Fur coats and no ability to sweat create a troublesome combo for dogs on the move in the summer. Pack — or plan to be near — plenty of water. And remember those feet! Dogs can lose excess heat through their footpads, so allow them to wade or swim in water you encounter on your hike as long as it’s safe to do so.

Ready, Set, Go!

Most dogs hit the trail at full speed! Be sure to check with your pet’s veterinarian about whether they’re a good candidate for this kind of activity as older dogs can forget that they’re not puppies anymore. Additionally, young dogs can misjudge a leap off a boulder or over a creek. Uneven or slippery surfaces in combination with canine exuberance can lead to muscle sprains, ligament or tendon injuries, and even broken bones. Hopefully nothing this traumatic will ever happen to your dog, but just in case, bring a first-aid kit for both yourself and your dog on every excursion. Duct tape, bandaging supplies, and antiseptic solution are a good start.

My two dogs are at their absolute happiest when they are hiking with my family and me. Go out and embrace the summer months with your dogs, too!

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment. 

Planning a trip with your pup? There are a few things to keep in mind when sharing travel adventures with your pets, which often requires preparation long before the journey begins.

Road Trip!

Driving over the river and through the woods to grandma’s is pretty easy most of the time—especially if you’re staying with grandma! If not, do some research ahead of time to find out local hotels that allow pets. Also plan to have a list of local emergency veterinary clinics, just in case. Bring your dog’s medical records, attach a current ID tag to their collar, and have a recent photo of them in case you get separated. Be especially careful at pit stops, because pets can escape from the car, get spooked, and get lost. Rest areas also tend to be germy places for pets and people alike. Make sure those vaccines are up-to-date!

Some states require a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (health certificate) by an APHIS-accredited veterinarian. This document states that your pet is healthy enough for travel and does not have evidence of contagious disease. It’s usually good for only 30 days, so plan this appointment to be done with your veterinarian shortly before your trip. Check out the American Veterinary Medical Association pet care web page for links to help you sort out what you’ll need depending on your state of destination. 

Come Fly With Me

• If you’re planning on travelling by air, keep several things in mind:
• Usually only very small dogs (under 20 lbs.) and cats may travel in the main cabin and must fit in a carrier small enough to fit underneath the seat. Larger pets must fly in the cargo area, and only newer planes have temperature/pressure-controlled areas for these animals. Never let your pet ride in the overhead bin.
• Certain airlines have weight and breed restrictions for areas in the cargo hold as well.
• Cold winter and sweltering summer temperatures can make the cargo area inhospitable for dogs and many airlines won’t take any pets during these times. This is a good thing—they have your dog’s safety in mind!
• Some airlines require official health certificates while some do not. This changes regularly, so check with your airline when you book your tickets. The website hepper.com has a good chart on the airline-specific requirements.
• Many domestic carriers only allow a certain number of pets per flight, so book early!
• Book non-stop when possible. It’s far less stressful on you and your dog. 

International Excursions

Getting to Mexico or Canada, whether by car or by air, usually only requires a health certificate, current vaccines, and some recommended parasite prevention. (Ask your vet which one is best depending on where you’re going). The rest of the world, however, takes a little more prep work. Check out agriculture.gov.ie/pets for specific country requirements.

Most countries in the European Union require proof of vaccination, a special international health certificate (completed by a veterinarian), and an international microchip as a means of permanent identification. It can take some time to put all of these things together, so start planning your trip at least 6 months in advance in order to expedite the process later on.

Some places—usually islands—require even more work. To prevent the spread of rabies into these rabies-free areas (UK, Ireland, Malta, Sweden, and Finland to name a few, as well as the state of Hawaii), your pet must not only be up-to-date on their rabies vaccine, but also have a blood test by an approved laboratory demonstrating adequate antibodies against the rabies virus. There is usually a 90-to-120 day waiting period after the blood test. If you do not go through this step or the paperwork is not filed properly, your pet could be quarantined in your destination country. As you can imagine, this whole process requires a lot of time and usually several hundred dollars to complete. I usually tell clients that if they are permanently relocating to these places, it’s worth the effort. However, it’s an awful lot of hoops to jump through if you are only going for a week or two. Overall, it’s up to the pet owner to decide what is best for themselves and their pet.

Do I Need to Sedate?

Usually, no. The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends against sedating pets. Sedation can affect an animal’s equilibrium, which can increase their risk of injury. I have also found that up to 10% of pets can become more anxious while on medications because it makes them feel abnormal, which in turn fuels their panic. If your pet is at risk for hurting themselves during travel due to their personality (extremely anxious or fearful), ask your veterinarian for a trial dose of sedation and experiment long before your departure date to know how it will affect them.

It takes some research and some preparation, but you’ll find that taking your pooch with you can lead to some wonderful experiences! 

In 2008, a black Labrador retriever named Sampson was having a hard time getting adopted from a shelter in Seattle. Fortunately, conservationist Julianne Ubigau heard about the dog described as being “crazy” about playing ball and went to meet him.

“When we took him out to the meet-and-greet area, he knew exactly where he could lock his eyes on a bucket of tennis balls that was in the far corner of another pen,” she recalled. “He started barking and there was no interrupting that. That’s what people saw when they met with him and why he hadn’t been adopted for many months – we knew right away that he would be great for the job. He passed the interview within 30 seconds.”

The job for which she hired Sampson: to be a conservation detection dog for Conservation Canines, a program of the University of Washington’s Center for Conservation Biology that trains rescued dogs to help researchers collect information about threatened and endangered species. The dogs learn to alert on nearly 30 different scents – when they identify their target, their reward is playing fetch with a ball.

Since his rescue, Sampson has helped Ubigau on numerous studies, including searching for the endangered Jemez Mountains salamander in New Mexico, scat (the size of a sesame seed!) of the endangered Pacific pocket mouse in Southern California, and seedlings of an invasive weed species in Washington State.

“Sampson and I specialize in doing projects that involve a lot of problem solving and experimenting,” she said. “He’s now twelve-and-a-half years old and still just as mad about playing ball as he ever was. He is just a really good boy.”

Sampson is one of 21 dogs currently working with Conservation Canines. When not in the field, about 14 dogs handlers and the “K9s” live in a facility on 4,300 acres of the university’s experimental forests. After retirement, the dogs live with former handlers or relatives – they are never returned to shelters.

“We’re like one big pack,” quipped Heath Smith, head instructor and coordinator for Conservation Canines. “We are trained to work with any of the dogs.”

Smith said his team rescues high-energy, toy-motivated dogs who would otherwise not fit into a family home. They’re all different breeds and mixes – he’s quick to note that it’s not necessary to have purebred dogs for scenting work – who typically start with behavior issues but quickly transform while training.

“When the dogs first come here, they’re not very trusting and don’t know what’s going on,” he said. “But literally within a day you start to see they actually have a physical change in their body. They start to develop this confidence and then as you start working in the field, it just grows and grows – before you know it, they don’t even look like the same dog. That’s an incredible part of it.”

These dogs work all over the world protecting wildlife – from big cats in Africa to pangolins in Nepal and wolves in America. They’re even able to detect the scat of killer whales from aboard boats in the Puget Sound. Smith said the dogs are effective at detection – dogs have up to 220 million scent receptors in their noses, as opposed to a measly 5 million for humans – but that handlers need special training to work well with the canines.

“Obviously we can’t speak English to each other, so there’s this other communication that’s going on. When you get in the field and you’re out there day after day covering 20 kilometers together, it’s incredible,” he said. “It’s an amazing communication.”

For example, the dogs are trained to sit when they alert on a scent. But when Smith was in Brazil tracking giant anteaters with a cattle dog named Gator, the dog kept sitting at a sample, then moving a few feet and sitting again – even though Smith told him to “stay.” When he got close enough, Smith realized leaf cutter ants were carrying the sample away, so the dog was trying to keep up with the current location.

Another time, Smith was looking for brown bears in the Pyrenees Mountains with a golden retriever mix named Chester.

“Chester just takes off up the side of this mountain and leaves me in the dust a bit,” he recalled. “I’m breathing hard trying to catch up, and I look up the hill and there’s Chester sitting. So I make my way up to him and soon as I’m there and I catch my breath, he starts walking again. He looks back to see me and make sure that I’m following, and he takes me right to a bear scat.”

Conservation Canine dogs and handlers typically work 6-10 hour days and cover 30-40 kilometers each day – Smith mentioned they give the dogs Hip And Joint and other Zuke’s treats as snacks to help them stay fueled. But they also do important outreach in schools. 

Rescued Lab Sampson often visits classrooms with Ubigau, now the outreach and education co-coordinator for Conservation Canines. She said the dog isn’t a distraction, but actually helps the students focus on her presentation. Often she tells kids about the “cool local wildlife” and conservation efforts in their region, and ways science is fun – like working with a canine partner.

“I’m outside exploring with my dog at my side, having a great time. That’s science, and I just want as many kids to see that side of things – that science is more than book work,” she said. “It can be fun and it can be really interesting and even the dogs, who were in shelters – considered ‘bad dogs’ – even they can be hero scientists.”

For more information about Conservation Canines, visit conservationbiology.uw.edu/conservation-canines. If you know of an adoptable high-energy, toy-motivated dog who could be a conservation detection dog, contact Conservation Canines or visit www.rescues2therescue.org.

Photo of Sampson and Julianne Ubigau by wildlife photographer and dog lover Jaymi Heimbuch. 

We often get questions on how to get that “Durango Dog,” which is a dog that can hike, bike, climb, and camp with you while staying well behaved. There’s nothing better than having a canine adventure companion, but where do you start? As we go over beginning training tips and theories, keep in mind that this type of training requires a good bit of time investment, but it is something that will most definitely pay off! 

When we take our dogs into the wilderness with us, we’re asking several things of them: stay with us, come when called, and stay out of trouble. From your dog’s perspective, there is a lot more going on! They’re hearing the following:

• Do not engage with this very intriguing environment
• Do not check out all these new smells
• Do not stare at that squirrel in that tree or chase it
• Do not say hello to those other people who look friendly
• Do not say hello to that person’s dog who looks very fun and friendly 

You get the point! You are not only battling a very intriguing and reinforcing environment, you are also asking your dog to not perform instinctual behaviors, like smelling everything and staring at every movement in the trees. The key to overcoming this is to be more engaging than the environment, and to do this, you want a dog that truly enjoys working for you. Getting to this stage with your dog takes work. You must trust your dog and your dog must trust you.

So how do you get your dog to choose you above everything else? This is where the investment of your time comes in. Choose a training plan that works for you and your dog and stick with it. Not all training plans have to be the same—your dog’s skill set may not be the same as my dog’s. Regardless of the training plan though, begin with practicing good behavior. This typically starts with a leash and treats. The leash is to help keep your dog with you, and the treats help to reinforce focusing on you instead of your dog self-reinforcing with the environment. This doesn’t mean you will always have to have your dog on a leash. It’s just to start; the ultimate goal is to trust your dog off leash, assuming the place you are at doesn’t have leash rules. 

Here’s how to begin your training your pup to be an adventure buddy:

1. Engage, engage, engage. No matter what happens in your environment, you want your dog to engage with you. This means you can recall them whenever you need to. To help your dog understand that you want them to come when called regardless of what is happening around them, you need to practice engaging them in all situations and environments. It’s important to establish these good behaviors and focus at home first. Then you can transition to right out of the front door (or out of the car). Have them sit, make eye contact, touch, or perform any of their skill set using treats. In this case, yes, they even get a treat for a simple sit. This gets them into a working-for-you mindset instead of an “I’m free!!!” mindset, which is very difficult to rein in.
2. Get goofy! Drop your “this is going to be embarrassing” mindset. If you want to be more fun than your dog’s environment, you have to work for it. Play a “chase-me” game with a long line, letting them play with you as they would another dog. Get a tug and let them get their kicks out with you. Jump around, be fun, be loud, and be engaging! Warning to the men out there: Our experience has shown that using a high-pitched squeaky voice is often effective. You might need to practice this. I frequently tell my deep-voiced clients to try talking like a girl.
3. Raise the stakes. As you raise the difficulty of the environment, you need to raise the amount of fun your dog is going to have with you. If you advanced from your front yard to a public park, get ready to use more treats and up the goofiness with your dog. If they learn that going to the park means they get to have fun and play with you, they will choose to engage with you because historically you have been more reinforcing to them.