Wildfires, hurricanes, tsunamis, or perhaps the zombie apocalypse . . . whatever the reason for abandoning one’s home, it’s a good idea to have an emergency kit ready with some essentials. People typically have a pre-packed bag for themselves, but far fewer have one for their furry family members. Remember to check this evacuation kit once a year to ensure it’s ready in case of emergency. Here are some items that I recommend having handy:

1. Spare collar and leash. Preferably with a tag containing your dog’s name, your contact info, and your dog’s veterinary records.
2. A familiar toy and/or blanket. Evacuations are stressful for everyone! Having a comforting item that smells like home can greatly reduce your dog’s anxiety.  
3. Your dog’s medications. This is especially important if he or she is on antibiotics or heart, seizure, pain or anxiety medications. Abruptly stopping these medications can cause serious health issues with your dog.
4. First aid kit. Again, this benefits both you and your dog. At the very least, a first aid kit should have:
   1. Bandaging supplies
   2. Iodine or chlorhexidine wound cleaner
   3. Triple antibiotic ointment or cream
   4. Vaseline (or similar ointment) to protect burns/cuts and to help with dry/cracked paw pads and noses
   5. Hydrogen peroxide
      1. A brief note on peroxide: While it is not a good antiseptic — that is what the iodine is for — it works well in a pinch for wound irrigation and getting the dirt and debris out of a cut or abrasion. It can also be used to induce vomiting if your dog eats something potentially toxic. Before you do this however, contact a veterinarian to see if inducing vomiting is the correct approach. Some substances can do further damage if they are vomited.
5. At least 2 days’ worth of food. Abrupt changes in a pet’s food can cause diarrhea and other digestive upsets, which is not something you want to deal with in a situation already filled with chaos! Be sure to check the food’s expiration date to ensure it doesn’t go bad.
6. Appropriate snacks or treats. Similar to having a favorite toy or blanket, having a supply of treats they are accustomed to will help alleviate extra sources of stress. Plus, having a tasty treat can help lure a scared dog out of hiding to help with rescue attempts.
7. Duct Tape. This can be used as emergency bandaging, to repair a torn item of clothing, or you can even fashion a makeshift leash if need be! Channel your inner MacGyver and you can probably come up with at least a dozen more uses.

Two other things that I highly recommend, but not necessarily in an evacuation kit:

• A sign in your front window telling rescuers how many pets you have: You may not physically be able to take all of your pets with you when you evacuate your home. A sign in the window will help rescuers know what — and how many — pets to look for when they come to help.
• A pet microchip: These are small, silicone-coated devices that are implanted by a veterinarian with a needle. About the size of a grain of rice, they are a means of permanent identification of your pet and greatly increase the chances of you reuniting with them should you get separated in an emergency. These are not GPS tracking devices (GPS technology exists for pets but in a real emergency these systems may not be reliable). Animal shelters, veterinarians, and rescue organizations have devices that read the microchip number and allow them to get in touch with you.

I hope I have given you some food for thought on how to best prepare yourself and your dog for an emergency. In cases like this, it’s important to hope for the best, but plan for the worst. 

One of my absolute favorite terms is “pet-friendly” — I love to take my dog with me on adventures as much as possible. So, I was thrilled to learn about a new program being introduced by the National Park Service: B.A.R.K. Rangers.

It’s a simple but brilliant way to promote responsible pet handling while also helping make national parks and monuments more welcoming to dogs. Handlers pledge to help their dogs follow the B.A.R.K. Ranger rules:

B – Bag your poop
A – Always wear a leash (6 feet max., and “don’t let your human leave you unattended”)
R – Respect wildlife (Don’t harass or harm wildlife by making noise or chasing them)
K – Know where you can go (parking lots, campgrounds, picnic areas, roads and designated trails)

The B.A.R.K. Ranger program isn’t widespread yet, but I’m hoping it will gain traction soon. Two of the flagship sites are Olympic National Park in Washington State and Montezuma Castle National Monument near Camp Verde, Arizona (about 50 miles south of Flagstaff).

Since Camp Verde is just a 6-hour drive from my home in Durango, Colorado, I was itching to head there and have Rio become an official B.A.R.K. Ranger. A call to Demii Grant, visitors use assistant, convinced me. She helped introduce the program to Montezuma Castle in 2016; her dogs Caesar and Coca were the monument’s first B.A.R.K. Rangers.

“The reason we introduced the program is because we want to continue to be a pet-friendly park, and we want to educate and promote responsible pet owners,” she said. “I love having my dogs with me, and I think it’s beneficial for people. As long as you’re responsible with your pet and know your pet, we’d love to have them come to our site.” 

Image

A few days later, I was on a road trip there with my husband Bryan and our Lab mix, Rio. Inside the bustling visitor center, we paid the admission fee and met with Ranger Debbie to go over the B.A.R.K. Ranger rules. Rio was an instant hit — kids wanted to pet him, adults asked his name (and wanted to pet him, too). As I tried to snap a photo of Rio with a cutout of Teddy Roosevelt, a British tourist offered to take one of us together while his son made silly faces and noises to get Rio’s attention.

Poop bags in hand, we headed past the flute player toward the main attraction: Montezuma Castle. Southern Sinagua farmers built the five-story, 20-room cliff dwelling between 1100 and 1300. On the trail, people looking up exclaimed things like, “Those must have been long ladders!” People looking down said things like, “That’s a big boy!” and “What kind of dog is that?” Like a good B.A.R.K. Ranger, Rio stayed on the trail (it was lined with foxtails, another incentive to follow the rules) and soaked up all the sights, smells and attention.

Back at the visitor center, we paid $5 for a B.A.R.K. Ranger dog tag. Rio showed it off while we cooled down in the shade, and we told a man with a dog named Azul about the program. After Rio and Azul sniffed and wagged, the newcomers headed inside to sign up.

My family spent the rest of the afternoon visiting two other sister sites. Montezuma Well is a stunning lake in the middle of the desert. Though I’d heard that local shelter dogs become B.A.R.K. Rangers and hike there for socialization before they’re adopted, part of me suspected the volunteer ranger who greeted us in the parking lot would say, “Sorry — no dogs allowed.”

Instead, she asked if she could give Rio a dog biscuit. The two rangers were instant BFFs!

We stuck to the trail and made sure to keep Rio out of the limestone sink, which is filled with endemic leeches. It’s not a swimming spot, but it gave us some great photo ops. We loved meeting another B.A.R.K. Ranger named Lola — and she loved the Zuke’s treats I offered.

Our last stop was Tuzigoot National Monument, which is an Apache word for “crooked water.” It’s at the summit of a long ridge with views of the Verde Valley. It was fun to watch Rio climb the steps to the top — and try to kiss the ears of the woman who started cooing, “What a beautiful dog” on her way up. Bryan and I soaked in the views and wondered about the lives of the people who lived there centuries before. Rio wagged hopefully at new friends, hoping — as always — for more treats.

The B.A.R.K. Ranger program led us to a fun day we wouldn’t have had otherwise. I hope the program expands throughout the park service so that responsible dog owners and our pups can prove that every national park and monument should be pet friendly!

Dog-Friendly National Parks

Here’s a partial list of national parks that welcome dogs courtesy of GoPetFriendly.com. Dogs may be restricted to certain areas, so check the rules first before heading out with your pup.

• Acadia National Park
• Cuyahoga Valley National Park
• Grand Canyon National Park
• Great Sand Dunes National Park
• Mammoth Cave National Park
• Shenandoah National Park
• Yosemite National Park
• Rocky Mountain National Park
• Badlands National Park
• Montezuma Castle National Monument
• Olympic National Park 

About 70% of dogs over the age of three have some form of dental disease, and so it’s important to support your dog’s dental health. Dogs need tough things to chew and bite through in order to keep teeth and gums healthy. Both will otherwise deteriorate, especially if all your pet eats is soft food! So, what to do?  

Gotta Have That Crunch

Be sure that your four-legged friend has crunchy things to eat.  Indeed, studies have shown that consistent dental care is important to prevent tooth decay and gum disease in our canine companions [1]. The same is true for cats (good luck brushing their teeth, though...) [1].  

Gnaw on This

Dental chews have been shown to reduce plaque formation in dogs, which may help prevent gum disease with regular use [2, 3]. Some dental chews may also support fresh breath with ingredients such as real mint, coconut oil, and rosemary. It’s important to always supervise your dog when he’s working on a chew bone.  

Pooch Paste

So, doggie toothpaste... A Google search for “dog toothpaste” turned up over 10 million hits, so I’d say that this is a pretty hot topic! Regular brushing of your dog’s grill may improve the healing of gum disease in part by stimulating gum regrowth [4]. There are a number of commercial doggie toothpastes on the market. Try to find one that is as natural as possible (avoid those with artificial colors, for instance). Also, many contain glycerin, a petrochemical byproduct. Instead, look for those that have vegetable glycerin. Remember that your dog doesn’t necessarily like the same flavors that we do, so think liver or chicken, not wintergreen.  

Absolutely do not use people toothpaste. Toothpaste for people contains ingredients that are toxic and otherwise unpleasant for dogs. Stick with a dog-specific toothpaste that can be applied with a dog-specific toothbrush, a cotton ball, or piece of cloth. Even your finger will suffice. Be careful to add water slowly so that the paste doesn’t become too watery.

Brush-a, Brush-a, Brush-a...

Start slowly and early in life as puppies to get your dog used to brushing. Be gentle, but don’t dawdle and try your dog’s patience. Always reward her with a crunchy treat afterwards. Consistency is key. According to one study, gum health was maintained only when dogs had their teeth brushed daily or when their teeth were brushed every other day and they were also given a daily dental chew [5].

Gum Infections

It’s important to take care of infections, which are usually bacterial and are indicated by red, swollen gums. The bacteria that cause gum disease can go systemic and cause dangerous infections elsewhere in the body. If the infection worsens or is severe to begin with, get your dog into the veterinarian as quickly as possible.

Dental Health Inside Out

Don’t forget to supply your dog with mineral- and vitamin-rich foods to support oral health from the inside out. Vitamin C may help prevent infections from starting in the first place by supporting immune health. For more specific guidance on supplementing your dog’s diet, see one of the books I mentioned above, and happy brushing!

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment.

References

[1] Buckley, C, et al (2011) The impact of home-prepared diets and home oral hygiene on oral health in cats and dogs. Br J Nutr. 106 Suppl 1:S124-7.

[2] Hennet, P (2001) Effectiveness of an enzymatic rawhide dental chew to reduce plaque in beagle dogs. J Vet Dent. 18(2):61-4.

[3] Hennet, P, et al (2006) Effectiveness of an oral hygiene chew to reduce dental deposits in small breed dogs. J Vet Dent. 23(1):6-12.

[4] Tomufuji, T, et al (2007) Location of proliferating gingival cells following toothbrushing stimulation. Oral Dis. 13(1):77-81.

[5] Gorrel, C and JM Rawlings (1996) The role of tooth-brushing and diet in the maintenance of periodontal health in dogs. J Vet Dent.13(4):139-43. 

Has your dog become a little more rotund over the years? Does your pet have more of a waddle than a spring in his step? You’re not alone.

Approximately 59% of dogs in this country are overweight or obese [1]. Why? In large part, it is because we relate to our pets via food. We give them food to comfort them, to bond with them, and to reward them. Over time, this love-in-the-form-of-calories adds up until our pets carry far more “padding” than is good for them.

Being overweight can increase a pet's susceptibility to ailments such as diabetes, pancreatitis, and fatty liver disease. Common problems like arthritis and hip dysplasia are greatly worsened with the burden of extra body weight as well [2]. I am not, however, here to lecture you on the benefits of weight loss. Rather, I’ll take my veterinarian hat off temporarily and assume the role of weight loss coach.

First of all, let’s clear something up: Yes, your pet can still have treats even if they are on a “diet.” In fact, I encourage it!  

Here are some concepts to keep in mind as you’re trying to get some weight off your furry friend:

1. Without exception, calories burned must exceed calories consumed.
   The healthiest food in the world will still cause weight gain if given in too big of portions.
2. Keep treats to less than 10% of total daily caloric intake and anything outside of their complete and balanced food.
   This translates to just under 100 calories for a 75lb Labrador Retriever, 65 calories for a 50lb Australian Shepherd, and a mere 20 calories for a 25lb Miniature Schnauzer. It pays to monitor calories for your dog, for they add up fast!
3. Portion control (treat size) vs. treat frequency: Reduce calories “in” via reducing the size of the treats so they can have several a day, or give only one larger treat once per day. For example, Zuke’s Mini Naturals have less than 3 calories each, compared to a large cookie-style bone or rawhide that can easily top 100 calories for a single treat. 
4. Offer veggies as treats. Many dogs like baby carrots, green beans, bell peppers, and zucchini. I’m not kidding. Try it! If your dog is one who does enjoy veggies, these are great low-calorie and high fiber (i.e. filling) items to offer at treat time. Animals don’t have the negative connotation with vegetables that their human counterparts have. If it comes from the fridge or a treat jar, it’s a treat to them. Some quick exceptions are onions and grapes/raisins. Dogs can have reactions from low-to-moderate amounts of onions in food, which causes a specific type of anemia.
5. Ask your vet about calorie intake specific to your pet. Every breed has a different caloric requirement depending on age, breed, activity level, and reproductive status. Please have your veterinarian calculate a number tailored specifically to your pet.
6. Always measure out the food you place in your pet’s bowl. Humans are notoriously poor portion estimators. This is a very common problem I see in day-to-day practice. One “cup” of food does not mean one large Big Gulp scoop. It means an 8oz kitchen measuring scoop.
7. Be active! Never underestimate the mood-enhancing, calorie-burning, benefits of a brisk walk with man’s best friend. It’s good for everyone involved.  

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment.

[1] https://www.petobesityprevention.org/2022
[2] https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11991408/  

Salt is often used as a flavoring and preservative in food, and has been since before recorded history. We take salt for granted now, but it was once so esteemed it was used as currency and was equivalent to gold in value. Salt was used in trade, and the difficulty in obtaining salt was initially responsible for it’s high value. Later, its availability to the market was highly regulated, thereby keeping the value high. Salt was also an important part of religious rituals across different faiths. And wars have even been fought over it! The word “salt” comes originally from “Salus,” a Roman goddess seen as the protector of health. “Sal” referred to the “salubrious” (health-promoting) nature of salt (1).

Why Salt?

Many natural dog treats and foods employ salt as a simple, non-toxic and natural preservative. Other natural preservatives include vitamin E (aka tocopherols) and vitamin C (ascorbic acid), which are used to prevent fats and oils in food from going rancid. Salt acts as a preservative via a different mechanism — it prevents the proliferation of microbes such as bacteria and mold. How does salt do this? In a high enough concentration, salt “sucks” water out of cells. Bacteria are individual cells, while mold is made of multiple cells. Salt also dries the food itself, by absorbing water, and making the food too dry an environment to allow microbial growth. You will usually see salt, vitamin E and vitamin C in a natural dog treat.

Does My Dog Need Salt?

Both sodium and chloride are heavily involved in cellular function, acid-base balance, fluid balance and nerve signal transmission. Salt deficiency may cause abnormalities in heart rhythm, restlessness, dry mucus membranes, excess fluid intake and excess urination, among other issues (2).

What About Salt and High Blood Pressure?

While excessive salt intake over time can contribute to high blood pressure in people, this isn’t necessarily so for dogs. Some pooches do suffer from high blood pressure, but many are generally resistant to it (3), and there is not much evidence that sodium levels in the diet of a healthy dog correlates with blood pressure (2). In fact, dogs appear quite resistant to wide fluctuations in the amount of salt in their diet (2). Problems in dogs related to salt are associated mainly with very high intake (2) or from being put on a salt-restricted diet (4). Indeed, salt is a necessary part of the canine diet, with the minimum daily requirement to avoid disease of 5 mg per kg of dog weight (2). Commercial dog foods generally contain similar levels of salt as that found in the prey animals eaten by wild dogs (2).

References

1. Time Staff (1982) A brief history of salt. Time. March 15.
2. Watson, T (2010) Sodium – chloride, tripolyphosphate, or nitrite: do dogs really need salt? Veterinary Times
3. Michell, AR, et al (1994) Salt, hypertension and renal disease: comparative medicine, models and real diseases. Postgrad Med J. 70(828):686-94.
4. Suematsu, N, et al (2010) Potential mechanisms of low-sodium diet-induced cardiac disease: superoxide-NO in the heart. Circ Res. 106(3):593-600. 

You feed them healthy food and tasty natural snacks. You walk them at least twice a day and frequently go on athletic adventures like running and hiking together. You may even know exactly how much they weigh right down to the ounce . . . but how do you know your dog’s weight is a healthy weight for their frame?

Ideal Weight Varies by Breed

Not all dogs are built the same. From the tiny 3-pound teacup Chihuahua to the giant 175-pound mastiff, each breed varies in muscle mass, skeletal size, and coat density. These all contribute to the average weight for each breed.

The American Kennel Club assigns a breed standard for weight and size, but we veterinarians see a huge variability even within individual breeds. For example, Labrador retrievers — according to the AKC — are supposed to be between 55 and 80 pounds. I have a Labrador patient who weighs a mere 45 pounds (yes, she’s a purebred Lab) and not too skinny for her petite frame. Conversely, I have a Labrador patient who is 110 pounds of solid muscle, far above the AKC breed standard, but still an ideal weight for his larger, more muscular frame.

Ignore the Scale

Instead of fixing on the number on the scale, a different way to determine your dog’s ideal weight is to focus on the Body Condition Score (BCS). Veterinarians and pet food companies have adopted this BCS system for evaluating a pet’s health and body composition.

The BCS system rates a dog from 1 (emaciated, minimal muscle mass, undernourished) to 9 (morbidly obese, excessive fat deposits). An “ideal” body condition would be a score of 4 or 5. This means that a dog has ribs that you can easily feel but not see. They have a notable narrowing at the waist, both from the side and from above. Even “blocky” breeds like bulldogs and pugs, despite thick shoulders and chests, should have a discernible waistline.

He’s Not Fat, He’s Fluffy!

Many times I’ve heard about a client having quite a surprise after taking their dog to the groomer. They think their dog is a good healthy weight until the groomer clips off a large amount of hair and presto! The dog has an almost instant weight transformation! What the owner thought was merely extra fluff and hair coat was actually large fat stores that had subtly enlarged over time.

“I didn’t think he was that overweight!” I hear this. A lot.

This can work in the opposite direction too. Thick, dense coats can mask weight loss over time.

A quick home test to determine if your fluffy dog is a good weight is to run your palms along the side of his or her rib cage, just behind their front legs. If you can feel the contours of the ribs with your palms, (and do not have to use your fingers to push through fat deposits to feel the ribs), then your dog is likely an appropriate weight. If you can feel sharp edges of protruding ribs with your palms alone, your dog might be too thin.

Keeping your dog at a healthy weight for their whole life is crucial for long-term wellness. Excess weight can accelerate the development of arthritis in their limbs and make them more prone to orthopedic injuries, skin diseases, diabetes, and even potentially shorten their life span. I encourage you to do them a favor and regularly reassess their BCS and adjust their meal portions and treats accordingly. Pursue veterinary care if you notice unexplained weight gain or loss. This will help keep them healthier and happier long into their senior years! 

A well-trained dog is up for any outdoor adventure.

In my experience, one of the best commands to teach your adventure buddy is “on your bed.” This is a great skill for “crag dogs” – pups that will stay put while their people are rock climbing. While I focus on climbing in this post, this command is applicable to any outdoor activity where you don’t want your pup to wander, such as camping or fishing.

My husband and I have climbed all over the world, allowing us to meet crag dogs across the United States, as well as South Africa, Thailand and more. To my surprise, it seems everyone’s take on what makes a good, a well-trained crag dog is generally the same. The following is an overview of feedback we’ve received, with a focus on attributes that help keep everyone safe.

First off, for any outdoor activity, you want a well-socialized, stable dog with good, basic manners. Your dog should like people, dogs and kids. Your dog also shouldn’t react to things that pop up or surprise them, such as suddenly encountering other dogs and people on a switchback. It’s not that your dog isn’t allowed to be startled; their response needs to be appropriate, and you need to be able to call them out of it. I personally have thanked my lucky stars that my dogs have a solid recall. A couple years ago during summer, we had some very close encounters with bears, and it was a good thing that part of my own startle response is to immediately call my dogs!

In addition to having a well-behaved dog, there are some specific skills you will need to practice for safety with a crag dog. There is a lot going on at a climbing crag, such as ropes going up and coming down, a potential rock fall, people that could fall and swing, and so on. Having voice command over your dog is imperative. You can’t run over and grab a collar as you are belaying someone.

To be a crag dog, your pup:

• Needs to come when called
• Can’t beg or get into packs for food
• Can’t play with other dogs or people while at a crag
• Must be comfortable being handled or told to do things by other people
• Needs to be able to stay calm and not engage in a busy environment
• Needs to be OK being away from you, especially if you’re climbing a multi-pitch route

It’s not fair to expect other people at the crag to manage your dog while you are busy. Do keep in mind that the way other people interact with dogs may not meet your approval. For instance, if your dog steps on someone else’s ropes or gear, they might just shove your dog off of it. And when expensive safety gear is involved, it’s especially important to follow proper crag etiquette to prevent sharp claws from digging into ropes and debris from getting into cams and other hardware. Be proactive and communicate with people at the crag. Ask if they would prefer your dog to stay by you. Though they might love dogs, always ask and never assume.

A skill that I use as a foundation for my dogs is the command, “on your bed.” When climbing, I make sure to always bring a bed or blanket for my dogs. That way when I am at the climbing crag, it’s clear what I want my dog to do. As with any skill you teach your dog, it takes time to work up to having them perform these tasks in new, fun environments. I recommend practicing these skills at a crag on a weekday when it’s likely to be less busy. It’s also best to go to a crag that has enough room to put some distance between you and other climbers. You might need to start with a tie-out by the bed and climb near your dog to help reinforce staying by you and going to their bed. A great way to help reward them while they are on their bed is to give them a treat that takes a while to eat. This way, they get to enjoy a high-value chewy that lasts while you climb, and you don’t need to chronically manage your dog.

How to Train the “On Your Bed” Command

To train “on your bed,” you’ll need a high-value treat, such as Lil’ Links to keep your dog’s attention, and a “target,” such as a blanket, towel, or dog bed.

1. Show your dog the bed and the treat.
2. When your dog is on the bed, ask for a “down” and toss the treat between their front paws so it appears to come from the bed and not you. Eventually they will offer the down on their own to get the treat faster.
3. When your dog is in the down, move around the bed and occasionally offer treats for maintaining the down-stay.
4. If they break the down-stay, reset them on the bed with the “down” command. Use treats to reinforce the behavior you want.

5. Use a release command, such as “free,” so your dog knows when it’s OK to get off of the bed.
    

   Photo courtesy of @climbingcollie.
    

One of the great joys in life for my dog and me is to be able to enjoy the plethora of trails and rivers around southern Colorado. I am hard pressed to find a source of more pure, unadulterated dog joy than letting her relish all of the smells and sights of the local mountain wilderness. I’m sure that many of you and your dogs feel the same way about the abundance of outdoor recreation this time of year. But now that summer is fully upon us and temperatures are climbing all over the country, I am getting more questions about when to worry about overdoing it with our furry friends. Allow me to share some of my more commonly asked summertime questions.

How hot is too hot for my dog?

With the thermostat climbing, a fun day outside can quickly become uncomfortable (and dangerous!) to those wearing full-time fur coats. It likely seems logical, but if you are outside and uncomfortable in the heat, then most likely your dog is too. Always be sure to provide plenty of fresh water and shade. Be sure to be cognizant of acclimation as well. In other words, if you were born and raised in Phoenix, Arizona, a 90-degree day may feel quite mild. If you were raised in Barrow, Alaska, then that same 90 degrees may feel like the surface of the sun. The same goes for our pets. If you are travelling this summer with your dog and you are used to living and playing in cooler temperatures, a journey south to a warmer and/or more humid climate may pose more of a risk to your pet.

Which breeds have more problems with heat?

Dogs with short noses like Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boxers more commonly have problems simply due to the shape and size of their airways. A 2006 study on canine heat stroke reported that Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, and Belgian Malinois have an increased risk as well. Smaller breeds are less commonly affected but this may be due to the fact that they don’t run/bike/swim/exercise with their owners as often or as intensely as their large breed brethren. Remember that dogs can’t sweat the way you or I can, so their body cooling mechanisms are limited to panting and a little through the pads of their feet. This makes them more heat sensitive than us humans.

When should I be concerned about my dog?

The main symptoms for heat exhaustion and heat stroke are:

• Excessive panting
• Red gums or conjunctiva (the normally light pink part of the eye)
• Dry mucous membranes (the dog version of “cotton mouth”)
• Lethargy, sluggishness
• Gastrointestinal upset (vomiting/diarrhea)
• Hypersalivation (extra drooling)
• High heart rate (consistently more than 100 beats per minute when dog is not running around)
• Staggering, stumbling, loss of balance or coordination, changes in normal personality

What should I do if I see signs of heat exhaustion or heat stroke in my dog?

The best thing to do if you see any of these signs is to seek medical care immediately. The longer that a dog’s core body temperature is over 104 degrees, the more permanent damage can occur. A normal body temperature is less than 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If you cannot make it to a veterinarian right away, try to encourage your dog to drink water, and attempt to cool his/her body temperature by letting him stand in cool water if some is available. Ice packs applied to the armpit and groin areas can help as well, but don’t leave them in place for several minutes at a time. They can actually cause the temperature to swing too far the other direction and cause hypothermia (low body temperature). Rinsing your dog in cool, not cold, water helps to gently reduce body temperature safely. If no water is available, rubbing alcohol applied to the pads of the feet can help lower body temperature too.

What can happen to my dog if they get heat stroke?

Dogs with untreated (or delayed treatment for) heat stroke can cause some very rapid and very serious problems. To name a few, heat stroke causes clotting problems, kidney failure, seizures/brain damage, heart arrhythmias, multiple organ dysfunction, and eventually death. Yes, it’s scary stuff.

Any other summertime cautions for my dog?

I would like to mention a potential problem with outdoor activities that many overlook. Concrete, asphalt, and sand can heat to easily over 140 degrees in the sun. You may be wearing shoes but your dog is not. I strongly support taking your dog for walks but if it is in the middle of the day in the hot sun and you are stuck on paved surfaces, be aware of the excessive surface temperature. I have treated some pretty nasty burns on dogs that have been walked on hot pavement by well-intentioned folks. “Booties” are available at many pet supply stores that can protect your dog’s feet if needed and no grass or dirt paths are nearby. Your dog may not like them at first, but with proper introduction and training they can get used to wearing booties.

Also, UV rays can affect our pets too. If your dog has a lot of white or tan on its coat or is one of the few hairless breeds, he or she can get sunburned, especially in the thin-coated areas around the nose and ears. Ask your veterinarian what kind of sun protection would be appropriate for your pet.

I would never encourage a pet owner to stay inside all summer. We love to get outside and play! But pay attention to the heat index in your area. Excessive temperatures and/or humidity can quickly turn an outdoor adventure into a scary ordeal. Consider playing in the cooler parts of the day, and be sure to provide some shade where your dog can cool off when needed. Now go enjoy the summer!

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment.

Image by trailblazer Natalia Martinez. 

Like so many dog lovers, one of my absolute favorite things to do is hit the trails with my pooch. Rio and I hike in the woods near our home twice a day, but we particularly love exploring new places on longer adventures. Whether climbing up a mountain to an alpine lake or heading through desert red rock to a rushing river, life doesn’t get much better than being active and enjoying the fresh air and gorgeous scenery with a happy dog. If you’re as stoked as I am to head outside with your dog, you might want to check out some must-have doggy hiking gear to help ensure a fun and healthy trip.

Canine Backpack

As backpackers know, often every ounce of weight counts – I have friends who even cut off the handles of their toothbrushes to lighten the load. On longer treks, your dog can help out by carrying some of his food and water. Before you hit the trail, check with your veterinarian as there are factors to consider like age and conditioning. Though they’re happy to help, keep in mind that you don’t want to put too much weight on them. The general rule of thumb is that they should carry no more than one-quarter of their weight.  

Collapsible Water Bowl

Dogs don’t sweat, so it’s easy for them to overheat when hiking in the hot sun. You know dogs – they’ll keep hiking or running until they collapse. So, even if you’re heading to a river or stream, it’s important to frequently offer them water throughout the hike. This also forces them to take a break and rest, even if only for a moment. Enter the lightweight, collapsible dog bowl. When I first started hiking with Rio, I had one of those huge bowls that I’d fill to the rim. He’d lap at it for a little bit and then walk away. I’d be forced to dump out water that I should have saved for the rest of the hike. Now, I like small, collapsible dog bowls. If your dog is particularly thirsty, you can always refill it. It’s also possible to teach your dog to drink from a water bottle as well!  

Dog Booties

OK, we all know that dogs don’t naturally love booties. Their first response is almost always to try to get them off. However, booties can be key on longer trips, particularly if your dog is a “weekend warrior.” I know a veterinarian who has helped many dogs with paw pads that have been cut on rocky terrain or torn from the wear and tear of hiking long distances in the back country. The owners are panicked, but the issue is preventable. Dog booties can help protect your dog’s paws – just be sure to get them used to the booties at home so you spend your hike cruising through the trees instead of stopping every two minutes to put the booties back on

Poop Bags

This isn’t a sexy topic, but we need to leave no trace and scoop the poop. Biodegradable poop bags can be composted when you’re back at home, and you can feel better about double bagging the poop to avoid an unplanned mess in your pack.

Quick-Release Collar

The great outdoors isn’t the place for, say, bedazzled leather collars with a standard belt buckle. Opt instead for a nylon or other fast-drying collar with a quick-release buckle in case your dog gets snagged on a branch or something. You’ll also want to make sure you have your cell phone number on her collar’s ID tag in case you and your pooch get separated. It’s also important to microchip your dog so they can be identified if separated from you.  

Happy trails to you and your dog! 

“I wish I worked more,” said no one on their deathbed ever. Yet finding a healthy work-life balance is a challenge, especially in this Digital Age when we are connected to our devices 24/7, on-call for our jobs, checking messages afterhours, on weekends and even on vacations. Working too much can lead to stress, burnout and health issues, but it can be hard to find time for things that we enjoy and that help us recharge our batteries.

Luckily, there are lots of ways to find work-life balance through our dogs — just one more reason why they are man’s (and woman’s) best friend:

1. Exercise. We all know the health benefits of exercise, from weight loss to increasing mental acuity, but it’s so easy to put it off. Dogs, on the other hand, never avoid exercise — as long as they’re healthy, they’re always up for a walk or a hike. My dog, Rio, starts wagging his tail as soon as I pick up his leash (and demands I pick it up at least twice a day). I don’t think there’s a more perfect exercise buddy than a dog.  

2. Being present. It’s so difficult to stop mentally running through to-do lists, worrying about upcoming meetings and projects, or neurotically checking one’s cell phone for pings. It sometimes strikes me when I walk through a restaurant and half of the people are either talking on the phone or have a device resting on the table in front of them. But dogs live in the present moment (“Squirrel!”). If I take a phone call on a hike, Rio is not amused — he’ll block my path until I hang up and give him a treat as a reward for tolerating my rude behavior. Giving dogs our undivided attention is not only what they deserve — it’s a way to allow ourselves to take a breath and unplug for a moment.

3. Boosting oxytocin. A study in 2015 found that gazing into a dog’s eyes produces the happiness hormone oxytocin in humans. So just looking away from your computer and locking eyes with your pooch will boost your spirits!

4. Playtime. It’s hard to feel stressed when a dog is wagging his tail, so even taking a 5-minute break from work or chores to play tug or run through a few tricks like “high-five” and rewarding him with a treat will benefit both of you.

5. Family bonding. We all want to spend more time bonding with our families — that’s the vital element in finding work-life balance. Playing in the yard or having an outing with your dog, like going to the dog park or letting her “shop” for treats at a local pet store, brings the family together with a shared activity.

6. Quiet time. Sometimes we all need a little alone time. Since dogs don’t talk, we can take some “me time” to cuddle together on the couch to listen to music or read a book, or take a moonlight stroll through the neighborhood in silent companionship. Our pups don’t need conversation, just the occasional loving scratch behind the ears.

7. Play dates. Everyone is so busy that it can be necessary to proactively schedule social activities with friends. Doggie play dates are a fun excuse to get together, whether hiking to a lake where the dogs can swim or heading to a backyard barbecue or a dog-friendly bar for a “yappy hour.” Downtime is so much more fun with dogs!

8. Laughter. Is there any better stress reliever than a good laugh? I have the good fortune to work at home, so I’ll be typing away at my laptop when I hear a snort from the dog bed. I’ll glance up and Rio will be upside down making a funny face at me, which never fails to make me laugh (and walk over to rub his belly). Dogs are natural comedians, so they bring laughter to our lives.

9. Office mates. More and more businesses are beginning to recognize the benefits of pets in the workplace, such as reduced employee stress and triggering colleague interactions, and are allowing dogs in the office. So, working in a dog-friendly office with your pooch is another terrific way to create work-life balance.