Amid the flurry of holiday activities, it’s important to remain mindful of our pets’ well-being. Here are some ways to help keep our cherished pets healthy and happy throughout the holiday season.

1. Holiday Feasts are Not for All Beasts

What a delicious feast! Quite often we don’t want to deprive our animals the joy of partaking in a holiday meal. Be cautious of poultry skins, gravy, and rich cuts of meat, as these can cause upset stomachs, diarrhea, and potentially painful pancreas problems due to the high fat contents of these foods.  

2. Dismiss Dangerous Treats

Chocolate, macadamia nuts, onions, alcoholic beverages, artificial sweeteners like xylitol, and raw bread dough can all cause serious problems if eaten by your pet.

3. Minimize Stress from Guests

As visitors arrive throughout the season, our normal routines can quickly get disrupted. This is especially difficult for our pets. Try to keep feeding, walking, and play routines as close to normal as possible. Make sure sensitive dogs and cats have a safe place they can retreat to in order to escape any perceived chaos.  These are all drug-free anxiety aids for pets and are available at most major pet stores. If you’d like to keep your pup entertained and out of trouble during holiday parties, a toy filled with low-calorie treats, like Mini Naturals, can be a great way to keep pups occupied while you’re greeting guests.

4. Beware of Décor Danger

Please pay attention to the types of decorations you choose to put up. Styrofoam and glass ornaments may not look tasty to us, but are common objects for pets to ingest and cause stomach and intestinal obstructions. Ornaments sculpted from salt-based dough cause severe electrolyte imbalances and can lead to seizures or even death. Tinsel is particularly hazardous for cats. It sparkles and moves in a way that cats are drawn to and they often swallow it, causing severe intestinal bunching that requires emergency surgery to fix. It is a good idea to keep this out of your home or limit it to the upper branches of your tree. In addition, be sure to secure your Christmas tree so it is not at risk to topple over onto your pet. Additionally, gift wrapped presents can tempt the curiosity of pups so be sure to keep those out of reach to make sure they don’t take presents that aren’t theirs.

5. Avoid Poisonous Holiday Plants

Mistletoe, poinsettias, lilies, holly, and sharp pine needles all cause illnesses in pets. Keep them out of reach!

Also be sure to keep your pets away from the Christmas tree water in the stand. Add-in fertilizers, disinfectants, and stabilizers can all be harmful to your pets. Even the National Christmas Tree Association states that fresh tap water is best for your tree. It’s also the safest choice for your family. Just make sure your pets don’t drink too much of the tree water and dry it out prematurely.

6. Steer Clear of Automotive Hazards

Antifreeze, even in very small amounts, can cause rapid kidney failure in dogs and cats. It is best to keep pets out of the garage year round, but especially during the colder months when cars may leak these hazardous fluids.

7. Be Mindful of Plugs and Cords

Extension cords and holiday lights attract curious pets. If chewed — and this is more common than you might think — they can cause mouth and throat burns.

8. Watch Out for Wrapping Woes

Like tinsel, ribbons and strings look like toys to cats and puppies and are harmful if swallowed. Cloth and wrapping paper can also cause obstructions in dogs and cats.

9. Give Glorious Gifts

I’ve saved the best for last. What types of gifts can we give to our pets that are safe? A brief word of caution: Novelty holiday toys for pets tend to be flimsier and more easily chewed apart and destroyed. You can still give holiday presents, just be sure to closely watch your pet after giving them a new toy. A safe bet would be a comfy new bed, durable chew toys, a cool new collar, or adventure gear. Of course, you could never go wrong with a bag or two of Zuke’s treats!

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment.

During the cold-weather months, all of us, including our dogs, will face the dreaded cabin fever at some point. But keep in mind that even when you’re stuck inside with an energetic dog, it’s still possible to help him release some mental and physical energy with a variety of activities. Here are some tips to help keep everyone happy, even when the weather outside is frightful.

Maintaining a consistent training regime is a great way to prevent cabin fever and keep up on your dog’s manners. Creating a routine will keep him in the mindset of working and being engaged about learning, which helps when it comes time to expand on those manners or teach a new skill.

1. Play hide-and-seek: This is a great game to play throughout the whole house. You might need an additional person to hold Fido, or you can start working on a solid “stay.” Put him in a sit or down stay (or have someone hold onto him). Then, start by hiding somewhere in the house (make it easy in the beginning) and call him to find you. If it’s taking longer than you think it should, call him again. You might have to call a couple of times to keep him interested. Once he finds you, celebrate and give him a treat. This is a great way to work on recall and give your dog both physical and mental exercise.

2. Teach a new trick: Keep in mind that some tricks are just for fun and enrichment. My dog knows a bunch of tricks, everything from army crawling to “bang!” There doesn’t have to be a functional use for everything they do. Tricks are a fun way to help your dog engage with you, while using his brain for things that are not natural behaviors.

   The more difficult the trick, the longer it will take to accomplish all the behaviors that complete the trick. For example, “bang!” requires multiple behaviors: laying down, half rolling over, a freeze to that half roll over, sometimes a bark, and then a release to the whole behavior. Difficult tricks are the perfect challenge during these winter months, because you have plenty of time inside where there is less distraction. Just remember, it’s important to keep these training sessions short and more frequent. If you need ideas on what tricks to teach, just Google “dog tricks.” The options are endless!

3. Play “chase me”: A great way to get some energy out with some impulse control is the ‘chase me’ game. The goal is to get your dog riled up, play with him, let him chase you, then stop everything and ask him to sit, lie down, or perform any other simple task. The goal is for him to be able to stop and listen to you right away. This is a good game that fulfills a dog’s physical and mental needs. If you want to make it harder, ask your dog to do more than one simple behavior, adding more duration to the focusing part of this exercise. The ‘chase me’ game is perfect for energized puppies.

Even though the winter months may make some things more difficult, consider the season an opportunity to change things up with your pup. Have fun with some new indoor games so that everyone is ready to have a relaxing evening at home. He may not enjoy the “bad TV” you’re watching, but he will enjoy the snuggle time.

Image by trailblazer Elena Pressprich. 

Stand up paddleboarding (SUP) has grown a lot over the years, and as most dog people do, we want to share this new, fun activity with our four-legged friends. SUPing is a great way to get out of the house, beat the heat, and get in a good workout. When we have our dogs join in the adventure, we are helping them in more ways than you probably know. SUPing is not only a great way to work on impulse control and focus in different situations for dogs, but it’s also a great workout for them too! It also builds confidence and teamwork skills between you and your dog. Here’s an outline to help you get started SUPing with your pup.

Step 1: Fetch a Paddleboard and a PFD for Your Pup

Of course, with any new activity comes new gear, but we don’t recommend going out and buying a SUP right away! Rent a couple boards first to see what you like and what works best for you and your dog. Most rental companies don’t mind if you take your dog with you, and often times, they will help you choose an appropriate board with more grip for your pup. We recommend getting a pretty big board to start off with. The bigger the board, the more stable you and your dog will feel. You want to be able to focus on the task of SUPing and not worry about being on a board that is too squirrely. We also recommend that both you and your dog wear a life jacket or personal flotation device (PFD) at all times.

Step 2: Get Your Dog Comfortable With the Paddleboard on Land

Now the fun stuff, how do you get your dog comfortable on the SUP? The first thing you’re going to do is keep your board on shore and remove the fins (this is super easy to do!) and lay the board flat, deck side up. This gives your dog a visual reference of where they should sit on the board. Grab a high-value treat, like Zuke’s Mini Naturals, and give them rewards for walking onto the board. This may be difficult for some dogs, so take your time and use lots of treats to help them realize that the board is a positive thing to go onto. When you have them freely walking onto the board, work toward having them lay down. Having your dog practice a down when the board is on shore will help them to learn that when they’re on the board, they should lay down. This association will help everyone to stay on the board when you’re on the water.

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Photos courtesy of Gentle Canine

Step 3: Take It to the Water

The next step is getting the board in the water. Keep the nose of the board on shore so it doesn’t float away. Then, repeating the same protocol as above, get some high-value treats and reward your dog for getting on the board when it’s floating. This part is easier if you have someone to help hold the board steady.

When you have your dog offering sits and downs on the board when it’s on shore, you can go ahead and join them on the board and take off. We recommend to start off sitting on the board. That way, you both can get a feel for the board and you don’t fall off when your dog moves around. When you’re floating around, try shifting your weight back and forth. This will help your dog get used to the feel and movement of the board. As with all new skills and training, take your time and have fun working toward your goal of standing up and paddling around with your dog.

Not only is paddleboarding a fun outdoor activity to share with your pup, it also provides some training and physical benefits. Paddleboarding is a low-impact sport that is great for working out and stabilizing the muscles of older dogs and puppies. If you have a senior pup who can’t handle big hikes or trail runs anymore, paddleboarding is a great way to get them outside and moving around safely. It’s also a good way to help your pup get some physical activity and cool off on a hot summer day.

SUPing is one of those excellent endeavors that provides training opportunities as well as outdoor recreation for you and your furry best friend! As with all activities, remember to keep your dog safe and happy. Stop on shore regularly for potty breaks, bring lots of yummy treats to help with training, remember the appropriate gear, and don’t forget the sunscreen!

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Photo courtesy of Gentle Canine

Maria Christina Schultz, author of “How to SUP With Your Pup”, also contributed images to this post. Check out her adventures on Instagram at @sup_with_pup. 

It appears each year: The postcard or email from your veterinarian reminding you that it’s time for your dog’s annual checkup. But you think about your already overscheduled, hectic life and may find yourself asking, “Do I really need to take my dog to the vet every year? We went last year and everything was fine.”

It’s not simply about updating vaccinations or running unnecessary tests, I assure you. The American Veterinary Medical Association recommends annual physical examinations (semi-annual if your pet is a senior). Let me explain some of the benefits: lots of treats!

1. The L Word (Lifestyle)

An annual physical exam not only gives a pet owner and veterinarian a chance to regularly re-evaluate the animal’s health, but also offers an opportunity to discuss new health risks and concerns that may be changing over time. A pet’s lifestyle changes through the years, including but not limited to, housing, diet, exercise levels, daily habits, roommate pets, travels, boarding, and bedding. It even includes the habits and household situation of the owners. (New child in the house? Grown child home from college? Retirement? New spouse? Recent serious illness or surgery with a family member?) These lifestyle factors affect everything from food recommendations and vaccinations to medications and behavioral training.

2. Subtle Signs

Dogs and cats instinctively do not show signs of illness. In the wild, a member of the pack who lags behind will be ostracized from the group and left to fend for themselves. Not to mention the fact that predators quickly target those who show signs of weakness. Some breeds of dogs have even been selectively bred be stoic and tolerate high levels of pain for maximum performance. These characteristics can make it difficult for a pet owner to pick up on the subtle signs that something is amiss with their pet. My colleagues frequently detect evidence of disease during routine physical exams. These often surprise the owner. Signs of internal or external parasites, gastrointestinal disease, cardiac problems, or hormonal imbalances—these can all be quite subtle at first. If caught early these conditions are more easily managed.

3. How Time Flies

I am going to assume that you go to your physician more than once every seven years. Right? You’ve likely heard the adage that pets age seven years for every calendar year. This varies from breed to breed but for the most part there is considerable truth in this statement. Just as you can have significant changes in your own health over a seven-year span of time, so can your pet.

4. Watching the Trends

You see your pet every day—which may make it more difficult to notice changes that may occur over time. With regular wellness exams, your veterinarian is more able to pick up on any meaningful health trends occurring with time such as weight loss or gain, steadily increasing blood values, muscle mass changes, mobility, etc. For senior pets, the American Veterinary Medical Association recommends biannual exams and annual blood work.

5. Fearful Fido

Is the main reason you are hesitant to go based on an unpleasant experience in the past or a negative reaction from your dog? Make sure you have a veterinarian that mirrors your own personal philosophies and style. It shouldn’t be scary or stressful for either of you to visit the veterinarian. 

Road trips are a great way to get out and see new parts of the country. With endless miles of road to explore, why not explore it with your dog? With some planning ahead, training, and the right supplies, you can have a fun-filled, memorable road trip with your dog.

There are a few key things to figure out before you hit the road.

First, you’ll need to properly contain your dog inside your car. A pet seatbelt or secured carrier are the best options. To avoid neck injury, be sure to choose a seatbelt that attaches to your dog’s harness rather than their regular collar. Also, look for crash-tested crates. Letting your dog roam loose in the car or sit on your lap is a distraction to you as the driver and dangerous for your dog’s safety. And as appealing as a dog sticking their head out the window seems, the wind is irritating to their mucus membranes and can blow debris into their eyes and other harmful objects their way. If you own a flatbed truck, keep in mind that pups should never be transported in the bed of a pickup truck. An estimated 100,000 dogs die in accidents each year because of this.

Once you’ve got safety checked off the list, there are a few key things to remember to pack to make sure Fido stays comfortable and safe on the road. Your dog will need food and water bowls, a leash, a bed, toys, treats and poop bags. Be sure to look into what each state recommends and requires for vaccinations and update your dog a few weeks in advance. Always keep vaccination records easily accessible in your luggage. Your pup should have an up-to-date ID tag and collar, as well as updated microchip information for easy identification.

To get your dog ready to travel long distances, start by taking him for shorter trips and building up to longer distances. This will help your pup get comfortable with the car and avoid unnecessary stress. In addition, before heading out, try to plan rest stops or other places to stop and let your dog expend some energy. Finding nice little hikes along the way can be a great way for everyone to stretch their legs. If you find yourself at a smaller rest stop, grab a long line and do brain work or recall games with your pup. I like making it a habit to grab a handful of Zuke’s Mini Naturals and doing some brain work every time I get out of the car. This is a great way to practice impulse control and keep your dog focused on you. The last thing you want is your dog launching out of the car at every stop and not paying attention to you—this isn’t only for training, it’s for safety. If you’re traveling through bigger cities, you will likely be able to find a dog park for your pup to run around in. Wherever we stop, we always try to give our dogs a balance of physical exercise and brain exercise.

To help eliminate some frustration from needing frequent rest stops breaks, we suggest teaching your dog to go potty on command. The best way to accomplish this is to keep your dog on leash in a specific potty area and wait for them to go. Once they go, you can praise them and give them a treat. We don’t recommend adding the verbal cue until after a few times of the treat and praise, so that Fido will better understand what he is being praised for.

After they go potty, we give our dogs an opportunity to walk around and check things out as a secondary reinforcer. If you’re in a place where your pup can be off leash and run, this can also be a great way to get some energy out. We keep our dogs on leash until they go potty to keep them focused. That way, a potty break doesn’t also become a play break. But once they go, it’s game on!

Road trips are a great way to include your dog in your vacation plans. Traveling is a skill set, so be sure to practice and build up the tools you and your pup will need to have a fun family vacation!

We all know the joy of taking our dogs on an adventure, unclasping the leash and watching them frolic in the tall grass, chase grasshoppers, and revel in the freedom of being outside and off-leash. However, before we can even get to this point, there is one big thing we need to make sure we are comfortable with — the recall. You must be certain your dog will come when called. Recall can be a big frustration for many dog owners. Their dogs will recall in certain situations and at other times act as if they have never had any training at all. Many pet owners have said, “It’s like they shut their ears off!” or “They get this crazy look in their eye, and you know they are not coming back until they want to.”

We have all struggled with off-leash recall; it’s very difficult to perfect with any dog. Simply put, once free to explore, everything else is more interesting to your dog than coming when called. Now this doesn’t mean your dog doesn’t love you, all it means is that other stimulants like smelling a tree or chasing a squirrel are a higher priority.

You can compare the time your dog has off-leash with how a child experiences Disneyland. You would never expect them to want to remain by your side, but rather take their time to discover, experience and engage with their environment. So how do we get our dogs to listen to us with so much stimuli competing for their attention? The answer is to be more exciting and more fun than anything else in the vicinity — particularly when training!

There are many ways to work on off-leash recall, but I have found that making a game of it is the most effective approach. This game can be practiced anywhere from your backyard to the backcountry and engages their natural urge to play and chase.

1. First, you will need:
   1. Flat collar or harness on your dog
   2. 15-20 foot long line
   3. Treat pouch or pockets
   4. High-value treats like Zuke’s Mini Naturals  
   5. 15-20 minutes to have fun and get goofy with your dog  
2. Pick a place of low stimulation for you and your dog. Finding a training area with few distractions will increase your success rate. If you try doing too much too soon, the potential for failure increases.
3. Attach the long line to your dog and hang onto the handle. The game is simple: you want your dog to chase you. (You don’t chase them.)
4. Start by calling your dog’s name and taking off in a slow jog in the opposite direction that your dog is facing. Taking off in the opposite direction makes your behavior harder to anticipate, therefore keeping your dog on his toes (paws). How many times have you seen two dogs interacting where one is waiting for the other to run and initiate the game of chase? During this game, we want your dog to choose to engage in play with you and ignore everything else.
5. Once your dog has reached your side in the chase, stop, grab a treat, and cookie them in a heel.
6. At this point, you can also ask them for a sit, which helps reinforce your dog’s ability to stop playing and still focus his attention on you.
7. Once you have them consistently engaged and playing with you, increase your speed and distance slowly. Keep in mind it may take multiple sessions before you can start increasing distance.

The most important part of this game is to have fun! Don’t be afraid to get goofy with your dog, it just makes them want to engage with you more. These training sessions are no more than 15-20 minutes — keep it short, fun, and use lots of treats! 

Using treats when training your dog is an effective, positive way to motivate them, and it shows that you have great things to offer when they listen and work for you. Consider it a contract with your dog: if you do this behavior for me, I will give you a yummy treat! All training has to start somewhere, and most dogs don’t start working for a pat on the head.

The key to training with treats is to understand that not all treats are created equal. This is a fact you should most definitely use to your advantage when training your dog! The higher the treat value (read: deliciousness), the more your dog will want to work for it. For example, a piece of cheese has a much higher value than a dry biscuit, and as such can capture your dog’s attention quicker and hold it for longer.

As a trainer, I always go for high quality wholesome treats that offer different types of proteins and natural flavors. I use a lot of rabbit, salmon, and peanut butter treats with my dogs. By mixing these new and interesting proteins into my routine, it’s easier for me to get a dog’s attention. I know I would be more likely to perform a task if you offered me a cupcake versus broccoli!

Here are seven easy tips to make sure your treat is worth the trick:

1. The most important factor in choosing the right high value treats is whether your dog loves them enough to work hard for them. There is a simple way to find out what your dog prefers: offer him multiple treats and see which one he takes first. Make sure your dog sees that there are multiple treat options before making a choice. It also helps if the treat that is not chosen is removed once a decision is made, that way your dog knows that he can’t have both treats. (Now, if you have a really food motivated dog you might have to do two at a time, one in each hand, so they don’t turn into a Hoover vacuum!) Additionally, some dogs will work for their kibble and you can use a portion of their daily meals as training, which is a great way not to increase calories, give them complete and balanced nutrition, and train them all at the same time.
2. The juice has to be worth the squeeze. This simply means that the reward has to be worth the work. The harder you want your dog to work, the higher value the reward should be. For behaviors that are already second nature, you can stick with your regular training treat, but once you start teaching new behaviors, you should up the ante with something delicious like a Zuke’s Lil’ Link.
3. Make sure to increase treat value with increased distraction as well. If you normally work on leash skills in your neighborhood and you want to try going to a park, be sure to use something new and high value to keep your dog’s focus on you.
4. Make sure you have the proper treats on hand to have a successful training session. Know what you want to work on ahead of time and pack accordingly.
5. Practice having your dog work for treats at home. This helps define training time and communicates with them that when you take treats out it is time to work. With this groundwork laid, your dog will already have an idea of what’s expected of him when you go downtown or hit the trail.
6. Keep your training time focused and short. Make sure it’s clear to your dog what you want them to do. Sometimes we get caught up in taking things too quickly, which can frustrate both you and your dog. Additionally, you don’t want to work until your dog is so tired or brain dead that they quit taking treats – this will lessen their desire to work for you and make for less effective training. Make sure to never tease your dog! Teasing may cause frustration and demotivate the dog to learn.
7. Make sure to take your time, have fun, and always end on a high note. 

One of the top training questions we are asked is how to stop dogs from jumping up to greet people at the door. We want them to be happy to see friends and family while also minding their manners.

There are multiple reasons why dogs jump on people: to say “hello,” express stress or frustration, or get your attention. No matter the reason, we can always help communicate to our dogs what we would like them to do instead of jumping up.

No one wants their rambunctious pup knocking over grandma when she comes over to visit. It’s not only a bad habit — it’s a safety issue. You can use these training tips when introducing your dog to people: in the home, on the trail or walking downtown. It’s always good for your pup to have proper greeting manners.  

Tip 1: Help your dog stay calm and under control during meet-and-greets with people.

To teach your dog proper greeting skills and prevent them from shooting over the threshold, ask your pup to offer an appropriate behavior, such as a sit or down, when someone is at the door. By giving them a simple alternative behavior like a sit instead of jumping, you can reinforce the behavior you want. Ask your dog for a sit before they meet someone or have the person they are meeting ask for the behavior. If your dog does not perform the task asked of them, they don’t get to meet that person.  

Tip 2: Ask people to wait to greet your dog until she is calm and polite.

By giving your dog a chance to calm down, you help diffuse an overzealous greeting. If your dog gets attention for staying calm and being appropriate, they will realize jumping up and acting out doesn’t get them anything.  

Tip 3: Have your guests wait to greet your dog when you are in a larger, more appropriate area.

This approach mitigates traffic jams in doorways and helps your dog understand that meetings don’t happen at the door.

Tip 4: Leave a note on the outside of your door telling visitors how and when to greet your dog.

For example: “Please help me with Fluffy’s training! When you come in, do not greet her in the entryway. Please wait to pay attention to her until you are in the family room. Thanks!” This is a good way to make sure everyone is on the same page and there is consistency for your dog.

Tip 5: Keep treats handy to reinforce the behaviors you want your dog to do.

Setting up your house for success is as easy as keeping a treat jar in the living room, easily accessible to guests. When Fluffy offers a calm sit away from the door, she gets a treat right away. Capturing and reinforcing good behavior is always easier than trying to fix an unwanted behavior.

Tip 6: Recognize that not all people are greeted as equals in the mind of a dog.

We call this the “grandma card,” meaning that some people are higher value in your dog’s eyes, and it could be more difficult for your dog to act calm around these people.

Tip 7: When greeting a dog at the door, stay calm and discourage jumping.

And if you find yourself in the middle of an inappropriate greeting such as getting jumped on, cross your arms across your chest (up and away from the dog), stay calm, quiet, and turn your back to the dog. You are essentially giving them “the butt.” When you ignore all frantic behavior, the dog doesn’t get anything out of it. When dealing with any type of overstimulation, it’s important that you do not add stimulation to the situation.

Once the dog has calmed down, turn around and ask for an appropriate behavior before they get the chance to try jumping up again. If you do not give them an alternative behavior, they might try what’s easy, which is jumping up on you. 

As with packing for yourself, exactly what you need to bring for an outdoor adventure with your dog will vary depending on the excursion. A quick hike after work won’t require the same amount of gear as a week-long wilderness backpacking trip. Let’s start with the basic essentials you should bring on every outing, then work down to the specialized gear.

Leash: If it’s the law, you should always follow local regulations and keep your pup on a leash. Other people who don’t like canines or have leash-reactive dogs should also be free to enjoy public areas free of worry and annoyance. If off-leash hiking is allowed, it’s still always good to have a leash handy for situations where you have to quickly secure your dog. We recommend using a leash even if local laws defer.

ID Tag and Microchip: We all hope this never happens, but you want to make sure your dog can be easily identified if you’re separated on the trail. Having your name and phone number on their collar or ID tag can save a lot of stress if your adventure buddy wanders off. A microchip is helpful, too, in case your dog’s collar or ID tag somehow falls off. It’s more common than you might think, especially in dense woods.

Poop Bags: Dog poop can contain bacteria that’s harmful to people, other pets and wildlife, and it’s crucial to always pick up after your pup. That’s doubly-true in high-traffic areas. Not only can it hurt the environment by taking longer to breakdown, it’s a stinky eyesore that could diminish someone else’s experience. The grossness factor can be mitigated by using scented and/or multiple bags, and by putting it in your dog’s pack instead of your own.

Water and Collapsible Bowl: It might seem like a no-brainer, but it’s an unfortunate truth that distressed and dehydrated dogs are common on the trail. Even if you know your route includes numerous water sources, carry plenty of extra water for your pup. I can’t stress this one enough. Especially during the searing days of summer, a situation can turn dangerous incredibly fast if a dog isn’t getting enough regular H2O. The easiest way to hydrate your best friend is carrying a collapsible dish.

Treats: A dog needs energy, just as humans do. Make sure they’re consuming the right nutrients along the way or they might start to lose steam before returning to the trailhead. Treats that have a healthy amount of protein and fat will help your adventure buddy stay energized and speed recovery. Treats also work well for training on the trail. A pup that knows she’ll get regular rewards for obeying your commands is more likely to stay well-behaved in the midst of so many intriguing distractions.

Booties: Some dogs have paw pads so hardened and tough they can spend hours on rough talus without a thought, while others will be torn and bloody after a quarter-mile on the same trail. It’s important to know your dog and always err on the side of caution. In particular, booties are helpful on snow, ice, hot pavement and long stretches of rock. Whatever the usage, establish comfort with wearing them well before heading into the field. Put them on around the house or for short walks to avoid your best friend totally freaking out about the weird things on his feet when they’re actually needed.

Dog Jacket: This is a catch-all category because, like humans, dogs can have a quiver of jackets for every occasion. Rainwear, life jackets, warm coats, cooling vests — you name it, a company probably makes it. Different dogs will have different needs based on their coat, your location, the season and so on. For my short-haired border collie, two personal favorites are a synthetic “puffy” jacket and a blaze-orange safety vest. The synthetic coat is perfect as a warm layer for winter outings, as a “wearable sleeping bag” for camping and as an emergency layer. The safety vest is great for hunting season, or at night and during other low-light situations.

Illumination: If you’re going to be hiking or camping or doing anything when it’s dark, some sort of light you can put on your dog can go a long way toward keeping them safe. Some people prefer LED collars or simply wrapping a human headlamp around their dog’s neck. Even if you plan to be back at the trailhead before dark, carrying illumination is never a bad idea in case you’re caught out longer than expected.

Dog Pack: Many dogs have energy to spare. Why not use that to lighten your load a little? Dogs can comfortably carry, in general, about 25 percent of their body weight. Even for smaller dogs, that usually means at least their own food and water. Many packs also serve as harnesses with multiple leash attachments and a handle for securing your pup or assisting her in navigating certain terrain. As a bonus, it’s also a receptacle for used poop bags that doesn’t involve being within two feet of your nostrils at all times.

Bear Bell: A bear bell is also not a bad idea in certain regions. It will alert nearby animals and people that you’re approaching, and help you locate your dog if they range a little too far.

First Aid Kit: Pets can get into all sorts of things on the trail, so it’s a great idea to keep both a pet-specific first aid kit in your pack. This can help you doctor any bites, burns, scrapes or sprains your pup might suffer on the trail.  

Whether you like to take your pup out for day hikes or week-long expeditions into the backcountry, it’s good to be prepared. You’re bound to have an adventure buddy for life if you can keep them safe and happy on the trail. Happy exploring! 

Puppies are an enormous, life-changing responsibility, but they bring great joy to our lives. It’s our job to be prepared, emotionally and logistically, in order to give them the best start that we can.

Here are some tips for the journey…

1. Feed ‘em Right!

Puppies are little metabolic powerhouses. They need extra calories, and extra protein in particular, to support their mind-bogglingly rapid growth. The exact amount will depend on the breed, but generally, pups need about twice the energy per pound of their body weight than an adult dog needs. As they get closer to their final size — their teenage months as it were — they don’t need to be quite the food-devouring machines that they were as young pups.

Be choosy about what you feed your puppy. If you are buying commercial food, look on the packaging for an Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) statement that the food meets the nutritional requirements for puppies. If rearing a large breed and feeding commercial food, you will have to keep them on their puppy food longer than if rearing a small or medium-sized dog. This is a good topic to discuss during that first vet visit. While there, be sure to ask your veterinarian their recommendations.

2. Meet the Veterinarian

Bring your new pooch to your favorite local veterinarian as soon as possible for an examination and to get guidance on what needs to be done, on potential problems to look out for, etc. Make it as pleasant an experience as possible. Use healthy, high-value treats in small amounts as rewards throughout the process: Getting into the dog crate, arriving at the vet office, arriving back home. This will make it much easier for the next trip when your furry friend is perhaps not so small anymore! Come prepared with questions for your vet to get the most out of the visit. For instance, breed-specific issues, behavior and training questions, preventative medicine, and nutritional considerations.

3. Be Kind When House Training

The key to successful house training is positive reinforcement. Praise the heck out of your pup when she does her business outside. Avoid punishing your pup if she has an accident inside… they are new at this! Expect that there will be quite a bit of puppy poop and urine deposited indoors during the process. (This would be a good time to temporarily roll up that expensive Persian rug.)

To reduce the number of accidents, take your pup outside frequently and be ready to give immediate positive reinforcement, whether it’s praise, a healthy treat, or some scratches on the butt.

4. Provide a Safe Environment

Puppies are mobile chewing units. They are inquisitive by nature, and like small children, the mouth is often a way to meet the world, for better or for worse. They also will go through teething around 3-4 months of age, which increases their desire to chew (for pain relief). Having age appropriate chew toys and redirecting their chewing behavior to those will set both puppy and owner up for success. When Milo was a puppy, he destroyed books, prescription glasses, socks, shoes, and power cords! Be aware of hazards: Power cords, toxic house and garden plants, toxic household chemicals and anything else at puppy level that you don’t want to have gnawed.

A final word… Provide socialization, boundaries, good nutrition and lots and lots of love. Remember that the more effort you put into your puppy at the beginning, the more fulfilling your relationship will be!

References

1) Wulff-Tilford, ML & GL Tilford (1999) All you ever wanted to know about herbs for pets. Bowtie Press, Irvine, CA.

2) Pitcairn, RH & SH Pitcairn (2005) Dr. Pitcairn’s complete guide to natural health for dogs & cats. Rodale Inc.