Heading outside? You probably have given serious thought as to which snacks to bring for yourself on your active excursions, but have you considered what to bring for your dog? Here are some things to keep in mind when packing for your journey, whether it’s a long neighborhood jog or a multi-day backpacking trip.

Powerful Proteins

Daily protein requirements are higher in dogs that regularly engage in long-distance exercise. These building blocks of muscle help dogs rebuild fatigued muscle and recover for their next outing faster. Similar to recommended post-exercise snacks in people, post-exercise snacks for dogs that contain a highly digestible protein with carbohydrates helps to maximally replenish the body’s glycogen stores. (These are the primary internal source for energy in an active athlete!) Consumed within 90 minutes of a vigorous exercise session, they help re-energize your dog for your next few miles together.

Counting Calories

For long trips, the big question I get frequently is “how much food does my dog need?” Of course, there are breed variations. Taller or longer-limbed dogs use less energy than their shorter legged cousins. On average, the calories needed for a dog engaging in an endurance-type activity are 0.8 calories per pound per mile traveled. For a 50-pound dog on an 8-mile hike, this means he needs an extra 320 calories on top of his regular caloric intake for that day. Of course, for shorter excursions, extra food is not necessary. Fun fact: A Siberian Husky pulling a sled in a long-distance race like the Iditarod can burn up to 8 times his normal metabolic rate, or approximately 7,000 calories a day! That’s a LOT of food. However, dogs often don’t burn as many calories as we think, which is why Zuke’s Mini Naturals with less than 3 calories per piece is a great choice for treating.

Electrolyte Replenishment

Watch any televised sporting event and you’ll be bombarded with advertisements of the importance of electrolyte replacement when exercising. It’s true that people can get sodium and potassium depleted during prolonged exercise, leading to muscle weakness, disorientation, irregular heartbeats, and even seizures. Interestingly, dogs are not prone to electrolyte depletion. This is mostly because they don’t lose electrolytes via sweat like humans. Supplementing electrolytes with a human product can actually lead to diarrhea and stomach upset. Additionally, supplementing vitamins (especially vitamin C) has been shown to actually reduce performance in endurance athlete dogs. They simply don’t lose the vitamins, minerals, and electrolytes like us humans. But they do lose moisture!

Water, Water Everywhere

While dogs may not lose lots of electrolytes and moisture via sweat, they do lose a fair amount of water through panting. Dog kidneys have a protective mechanism that keeps excess electrolytes from becoming too concentrated in their system as they lose water via exercise. It is critical that they are allowed to drink water during and after exercise to allow their kidneys to recirculate the needed materials throughout their bodies. If you’re out on the trails, make sure you’re aware of what type of water you’re allowing your pet to drink. A high-mountain stream near an underground spring or a fast-moving river are likely to be fairly safe, but try to avoid letting them partake in a stagnant pond or irrigation ditch. Dogs not normally exposed to the wilderness tend to be more susceptible to water-borne parasites like giardia. Standing water and runoff from livestock can have pesticides, herbicides, toxic algae, and even leptospira, a bacterium that causes kidney damage to you and your dog. Filter your dog’s water as well as your own if you have any doubt about the cleanliness of the water.

The dogs I see out on the trails of Durango seem to be experiencing pure canine joy. It makes me happy seeing people sharing the outdoors with their canine companions. I encourage you to do the same in your hometown! 

I can’t believe how lucky I am to be a pet parent. My Lab mix, Rio, brings so much joy and laughter and fun to my life – I love him like crazy! It’s something that’s impossible to explain to people who have never had a dog. Maybe that’s why many of my favorite people are pet parents – we share a special bond with our pups and know loving our dogs enriches our lives in countless ways. There is even a study that showed gazing into a dog’s eyes produces the maternal bonding/happiness hormone oxytocin. So science agrees: life is better with dogs. That’s worth celebrating!

So in honor of our wonderful dogs, here are 27 signs you’re a pet parent, and proud of it:

1. You ask if it’s OK to bring your dog to parties.
2. You sleep in a tiny corner of the bed while your dog spreads out luxuriously.
3. You watch the Puppy Bowl with as much excitement as a football fanatic watches the Superbowl.
4. You whip out your phone to show photos of your dog to people you’ve just met.
5. You think it’s super romantic when instead of jewelry, your partner gives you custom artwork of your dog or a “couture” poop bag purse.
6. You Facetime or Skype with your dog when you’re apart.
7. You engage in “social petworking” – your dog has his own Twitter, Facebook or Instagram page (actress Amanda Seyfried’s Aussie shepherd, Finn, has over 70,000 Instagram followers, for instance).
8. You constantly share photos of your dog online with hashtags like #TongueOutTuesday or #WoofWoofWednesday or #FurBabies or #KidsWithPaws or #LoveMyRescue or #DogLover.
9. You give presents or throw a puppy shower when a friend gets a new dog.
10. On a tender note, when a friend’s dog passes away, you send a sympathy card and make a donation to a nonprofit like the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary in memory of their dog.
11. You watch “Marley & Me” when you need a really good cry.
12. You consider looking at adoptable dogs on PetFinder.com, or as one friend calls it, “Doggy Tinder.”
13. You leave social gatherings early because your dog has been home alone too long.
14. You rock dog hair like a fashion accessory.
15. You spell out words like “W-A-L-K” in the presence of your dog if it’s not actually time to go outside.
16. Your dog was a bridesmaid or ring bearer in your wedding.
17. You like the smell of wet dog.
18. You have playdates with girlfriends to hike with your dogs or hit “yappy hours” at bars.
19. You sign your dog’s name on cards and add a little paw print so people will know she “really” signed.
20. Some of your favorite books have canine narrators, like Pam Houston’s “Sight Hound” (sob!) and W. Bruce Cameron’s “A Dog’s Purpose” (double sob!).
21. Your dog answers to his name as well as “Baby,” “Sweet Pea,” “Little Love,” “Mr. Perfect Handsome Boy,” “Fuzzy Buddy” and/or many, many other terms of endearment.
22. Your friends are always sharing inspiring or funny dog videos with you (So many people sent me “Cooper Loves Ice Cream” and I still laugh every time I watch it.)
23. You make decisions based on how your dog would react (See: “This apartment is nice, but where’s the closest dog park?” and “Our dog loves kids – let’s have a baby!”)
24. When you’re traveling without your dog, you make a special trip to a pet store to buy her a “surprise” for when you get home.
25. People give you mugs or t-shirts with slogans like, “I’d go to the gym but my dog needs me” and “Dog Is My Co-Pilot” and “I don’t care who dies in the movie, as long as the dog lives.”
26. You see a puppy and start wondering if your dog needs a sister or brother.
27. You and your dog embrace the Zuke’s motto “Choose Your Adventure” together!

Here are some tips to keep your best friend safe and comfortable this winter, whether you’re summiting mountains, snowshoeing through a meadow or walking around the city block.

1. Protect those Paws

The toughness of dog footpads varies wildly. Many pups can traverse sharp talus for hours without issue, while others would be bleeding and sore on the same terrain. The same is true of snow and ice, but even sled dogs need vigilant monitoring and occasional paw protection.

Even if your pup doesn’t normally need them, they’re essential for extra-cold days or in an emergency. Get your dog comfortable wearing them at home before hitting the trail, or you might not make it very far. Also remember to check them regularly for proper fit and to ensure snow isn’t sneaking in and freezing around the top opening.

I’m lucky to have a dog that doesn’t need booties too often. I do, however, lather her paws with musher’s wax.  When applied thoroughly and liberally, the wax keeps ice from accumulating on a dog’s fur and between their toes. Balled, clinging snow is a major source of discomfort. Musher’s wax is a strong deterrent to this problem. Two bonus tips: coat the lower legs up the joint as well as between the toes, and don’t apply it right before getting into the car. (Unless waxy pawprints all over your upholstery is your idea of a good time.)

Even with booties and wax, make a habit of regularly checking your dog’s paws, clearing them of ice buildup and observing for any signs of pain or discomfort.

2. Have a Plan B

Forecasting winter weather and snow conditions is an inexact science, especially in the mountains. Countless times, I’ve driven two hours to a trailhead in Colorado’s high country only to find temperatures 15 degrees colder or winds three times as strong as predicted.

Dogs are living, breathing beings, prone to good days and bad days. One weekend they might plow through snowdrifts for hours with nary a shiver, and the next they might be picking up their paws and whining before you even get out of the parking lot.

Play it safe. Especially if you’re traveling an hour or more from the car, there’s simply too much that can go wrong in the relentless winter elements to justify pushing your luck. Mistakes in the summer can be a mild inconvenience. Mistakes in the winter can result in major injury, or even death.  

Have a backup plan — something shorter, lower, drier, more protected. Sometimes this means scrapping an adventure altogether. Cuddling on the couch and crying into a mug of hot chocolate while watching All Dogs Go to Heaven is preferable to visiting the vet to treat frostbitten paws. Know your dog, observe them carefully and always be willing to turn around if it’s in their best interest.

3. Keep the Liquid Flowing

No matter how much fun it looks like your dog is having doing it, eating snow isn’t an adequate method of hydration. Snow is mostly air, and getting the necessary liquid would require consuming many mouthfuls. The effort a body has to go through to melt snow saps too much energy and warmth for it to be an effective source of fluids.

Natural streams and lakes are likely solid ice through the winter, as water has the unfortunate habit of freezing when exposed to temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Carry plenty of extra water for your dog, as well as yourself, inside your pack and wrapped in an insulating sleeve or your extra clothing layers.

4. Buy a Go-To Dog Jacket

Dozens and dozens of options exist from many different brands. For winter use, look for a jacket with a shell outer layer or synthetic insulation. (Or, preferably, both.) Hard or soft shell material repels moisture, and synthetic insulation stays warm even when it gets wet. This is important for when your dog is creating World War I-style trenches through neck-deep snow at breakneck speed. Dog jackets are great for warmth, obviously, but they also cut the wind and protect a pup’s belly from clinging snow. With the exception of dogs explicitly bred for frigid conditions, they’re a pretty necessary piece of winter equipment.

5. Choose Treats Carefully

As with human food, some dog treats can become so hard in cold weather that they’re extremely difficult to eat. This might require a bit of trial and error depending on your preferred brands, but identify treats that stay soft and easy to chew even as the temperature dips well below freezing. Mini Naturals, Puppy Naturals and Lil’ Links are all great options from Zuke’s.

Another tip is to carry your dog’s treat pouch on your person, instead of in a backpack. By storing it in one of your jacket or pants pockets, your body heat keeps the treats from becoming too rigid to chew. This is highly recommended for most human food as well, unless you enjoy chipping a tooth on your Snickers bar.

6. Carry an Insulated Pad, Bed or Blanket

No one wants to sit on cold snow for too long. Humans have the luxury of squatting on their backpack or tree stumps or whatever else is convenient for avoiding direct contact with the ground, but dogs don’t usually have such options. Bring along a blanket or foam pad for your pooch to rest on during breaks. Several companies even make lightweight, packable, insulated dog beds. You want your pup to have a warm, comfortable spot to rest, or they might be an icicle before you getting moving again.

7. Train Your Dog to Ignore Skiers and Snowboarders

Like with mountain bikes in the summer, dogs should be trained to ignore and stay out of the way of riders. Something about skis sets off the herding instinct in many breeds. It’s a scary, fast, foreign method of travel to which many dogs aren’t accustomed, and a frightened pooch can get loud and defensive. I’ve witnessed quite a few wipe outs as a skier rounds a corner only to meet a startled, barking dog. Ski edges are also sharp and moving fast, and they can cause a nasty laceration to an onrushing pup. Use treats and conditioning to ensure your dog is comfortable with skiers and snowboarders, or keep them on a leash in areas popular with those pursuits.

8. Be Wary of Lakes, Streams and Avalanche Terrain

Dogs don’t understand hazards in the same ways as humans. A partially frozen lake, to them, is just more ground to romp on. Keep a vigilant mental account of your surroundings at all times and have your dog on a leash or under strict voice control in areas that could potentially be dangerous. Don’t let them on a frozen surface unless you’re 100 percent sure it’s safe. Even then, it’s probably best to avoid the ice if at all possible.

The difference between being in the clear and in an avalanche runout zone can be as little as a few meters. Many off-leash dogs wander. Take an avalanche course, know how to travel safely in wintery mountain terrain, and keep your pup close when warranted.

Hiking in the snow, with dogs that love it and humans that are prepared, can be exponentially more rewarding than summer trails. If you’re lucky enough to have a powderhound, I hope these tips help you enjoy the backcountry with more fun, comfort and peace of mind.

Cover photo of Loki with winter hiking gear by #ZukesPack ambassador Miranda Harmon, @mirandashea24. 

Quite often I have clients lament how difficult it is to bring their pet into the veterinary clinic.  From the cat that won’t go into his carrier to the dog that tucks his tail and hides behind his owner as he approaches the clinic door, many pets develop a fear of the vet’s office.  Perhaps it is the smorgasbord of overwhelming smells and sounds?  Maybe a bad memory associated with a previous veterinarian clinic experience? But no matter the cause, here are a few tips for helping your pet feel less stress at the vet.

1. Bring Him Hungry

When possible, don’t feed your dog for two or three hours before taking him to the vet.  The staff of the clinic can use this to their advantage by offering treats to entice a nervous dog into an exam room or to calm them during a procedure like a blood draw or nail trim.  The dog is more likely to be tempted by the treat if brought in a little on the hungry side.

2. Bring Your Own Treats

If your dog is particularly fond of a specific type of treat (my dog will do just about anything for a pork and apple Lil’ Links,) then bring a few with you.  Reward your dog for his or her cooperation while at the clinic.

3. Happy Hound Visit

Most veterinary clinics will gladly support a quick ‘pop-in’ to the clinic.  Drive to the vet’s office, come in, say hello to the staff, and have them offer a treat or some scratching/petting, then leave!  A visit when nothing traumatic happens—only warm fuzzies and a snack—makes great strides towards improving Fido’s opinion of the vet clinic.

4. Practice “vet touch” at home (no shots of course) 

If you’ve had a puppy, you know all about getting them comfortable with human touch and handling — this process is similar. Add looking at their ears, teeth, eyes and paws to your handling regimen. If you find that your dog doesn’t like something, grab a treat and slowly desensitize them to the experience. We recommend starting the exposure of what happens during a vet check right away. It will help your dog understand that this type of touch happens and isn’t a big deal.

A good example of what some dogs struggle with is nail trimming or looking at paws. Since most owners are not comfortable with trimming their dog’s nails, this will sometimes get overlooked in the big picture of touch. You can help your vet or groomer to do it for you by practicing the motions that go into a nail trimming at home. That way, when you take your pup to get their nails trimmed, it isn’t a foreign or scary experience. Start with a treat in one hand and pet the top of their foot while giving them a treat. The goal isn’t to completely distract with a treat, but to reward them for staying calm and allowing you to touch their feet. Depending on your dog and how they react, work toward being able to pick up each foot, massage it, look in-between their toes, and touch each nail. Using treats throughout this type of training helps reinforce acceptance of all sorts of touch. If you’re not sure what a vet check-up consists of, ask your local vet.

5. Mood Music

When driving to the vet, please keep the music in the car on the quite side.  Nothing against heavy metal or loud booming bass, but studies have shown that classical music soothes both stressed humans and dogs.  It doesn’t have to be Bach or Mozart specifically, but preferably something mellow.   During my undergraduate job as a boarding kennel manager, I found the dogs would bark less when we would play music for them.  Believe it or not, I had good luck with classic country music.  (I’m not kidding!)  I encourage you to experiment with what seems soothing to your dog.

6. Avoid the Lobby

Nothing stresses a nervous dog (or cat) like an extended period in a loud and/or crowded waiting room.  The longer the wait, the more amped up a pet can become.  If you know your dog gets scared around other animals or strange people, ask the receptionist when you arrive if you may wait in an available exam room.  A little privacy away from the chaos of the front lobby can help any escalating nervousness.

7. Compression Garments for Dogs? 

Don’t worry; I’m not suggesting you buy some fashion-friendly shaping attire.  However canine-specific compression garments can sometimes have success calming an anxious pet.  The concept is similar to swaddling an infant, with adjustable stretchy sides that offer gentle compression around a dog’s chest and forelimbs.  Their initial use was for periods of stress such as firework shows and thunderstorms, but many clinics are now using them for patients to keep them more relaxed while in the veterinary hospital.

8. Fear Free Clinics

In a concept spearheaded by Dr. Marty Becker, aka “America’s Veterinarian” and former Good Morning America contributor, veterinary clinics are striving to make the whole vet clinic experience less intimidating to their patients.  They encourage concepts like:

• Exams performed on the floor instead of a cold metal exam table
• Natural light instead of fluorescent
• Acoustic paneling to decrease noise
• Keeping cat housing away from dog housing
• Separating loud barking dogs from the quiet areas of the hospital
• Calming pheromones on employee clothing and in cages/runs
• And many,many more! The Fear Free movement is just gaining momentum.

I recommend—when possible—searching for a veterinarian who employs some of these ideas.  By using these ideas both you and your pet will have a much more pleasant veterinary hospital experience. Don’t forget that staying calm yourself is an important part of keeping your dog calm, as they often pick up on and mimic our body language and emotions. 

We all know dogs are man’s best friend, but how to be a best friend to your dog can be confusing. By connecting with your dog, you will help him to feel balanced and be well-rounded. The bond you develop each day helps your dog learn to trust you and look to you for direction and guidance. Here are five easy ways to reconnect and strengthen the bond between you and your dog.

1. Be their playmate

You see it all the time when dogs play: pure joy. They get to run, wrestle, and get their kicks out. What if you could be the one to provide that for your dog? I’m not saying you need to start sprinting to be able to keep up with your dog; it can be as simple as getting down on the ground and playing with them. If your dog feels comfortable, play tug, wrestle a little, and let them interact with you like they would another dog if it is safe to do so. Showing them that you can be just as fun, if not more, as play time with other dogs, is a great way to reinforce your connection with them. Plus with you, treats happen!

2. Spa day at home 

Spend some time loving on your dog – pet them, massage them.  I know how I feel after a massage; your dog will appreciate the same relief. It’s easy to give them a little ten-minute rub down while watching TV or talking with the family. I massage my 15-year-old dog every evening to help prevent her joints from getting stiff. She knows that when I sit on the ground and call her over, it’s happy time with mom. 

3. Be a good study buddy

Educate yourself on dog body language and stress signals. This is a great way to understand how your dog is doing, and it will also help you to avoid putting them in situations where they’re not comfortable. Look for these signs of discomfort when you take them on walks or hikes, to the dog park, and so on. If you see your dog giving signals that they are scared, you can get them out of the situation right away. They will learn from these scenarios to really trust you and look to you for direction and comfort.

4. Expand your skill set

Add some new, fun training into your routine. If you and your dog are all set with the basics, try something new and challenging to engage with your dog on a more focused level and reward with treats! It’s no wonder some kids love their teachers. Learning new things is empowering and a teacher can make it fun. If you’re not sure what to try, call around and see what classes are offered in your area. Nose work, agility, tricks, hiking… these would all be a welcome challenge for your dog. They’ll enjoy the one-on-one time training will provide, and you can feel good to know that you’re helping provide your dog a well-balanced life. 

5. Get out and try something new

Going on new adventures with your dog is a great way to get out of the house and create a fun and stimulating experience. Now, the term “adventure” is relative. This could mean going on a hike in the mountains, taking a walk in a new part of town, visiting a new park, or hanging out downtown. Be sure to pay attention to if your dog is comfortable and having a good time out and about with you. If not, head home and try a different activity another time. Being out and about presents a great opportunity to fit little training sessions into your day. If it’s the weekend, take your dog to a coffee place that has outdoor seating so that the two of you can enjoy the day with each other. Make sure you bring some treats so that while you enjoy your coffee, your dog has something to enjoy too… coffee isn’t recommended for dogs.

By including your dog in some of your daily activities, you enrich their lives and strengthen your bond with each other. Whether it’s a walk into town or a quick massage while hanging out in your pajamas, your dog will enjoy the extra attention and will surely be your best friend FURever. 

Tips and Tricks to Teach Your Kids How to Train The Family Dog

There are few things cuter than watching children and puppies work together and form a lifelong bond. With some clear direction and supervision, children can be a great help when it comes to training the new family dog. Participating in training is not only good for Fido, it’s great for your kiddo, too. We often get asked how to safely introduce puppies to children. By having kids take part in training early on, you can help teach responsibility, taking ownership of tasks, and how to have a fun, appropriate relationship with dogs.

Letting your children assist with everyday tasks that involve your pup helps them understand the day-to-day care for a healthy, happy dog. It can also help keep both puppy and kiddo on a schedule. To start, we have several ways to teach children how to help with feeding the family dog. We don’t recommend letting kids put the food dish on the ground if your dog isn’t calm about feedings, but they can help prepare the food. Teach them how much your dog gets, let them measure out the food, and then call the dog to breakfast or lunch. A good general rule is once the food and bowl are on the ground, no child is to touch the bowl. A parent should pick it up once the dog is done eating.

Teaching any puppy to take treats nicely can be difficult. To make training go a little smoother, we like to teach a ‘soft mouth’ for taking treats from hands. A good rule of thumb is that the puppy only gets treats while performing a calm behavior. Calm behaviors are typically a ‘sit’ or ‘down’ and should never include jumping up or grabbing at the treat hand. When kids are giving treats, it’s best to have them ask the dog to sit and then SLOWLY give the treat with a flat hand facing palm up. The calmer your kiddo can be when delivering a treat, the calmer your puppy is likely to be when he takes it. If your kid isn’t comfortable giving the treat directly to the dog, they can still ask for a behavior and then place the treat on the ground for the puppy to get. We emphasize that the treat should be placed on the ground because sometimes throwing treats can make pups more frantic in the race to catch the flying cookie!

For adults, we recommend holding a treat in your hand, offering it to your puppy, and only releasing the treat when puppy is gentle. If your puppy becomes too mouthy, take your hand away with the treat, wait a minute, and try again. The goal here is for your puppy to realize that only a calm, soft mouth will get the treat out of your hand. Because treats are something that most puppies are eager for, this training may take a few tries.

Kids are great little trainers! By teaching them how to train by luring with treats, you’ve taught them a methodology that opens up a whole new world of possibilities. Encourage them to teach the family dog a fun new trick, like crawl, roll over, spin/dance, or anything else that comes to mind. This not only builds their confidence in training, it also helps the dog learn to respect and work with the children in the family. Sometimes it’s hard for a family dog to know how to act around children. Training is a great way to reinforce proper engagement on your dog’s part.

Another great way to have your child help with training is to engage your dog in a game once a day. The perfect time of day for this is when everyone gets home in the afternoon. Usually the dog is excited, your kids are excited, and you’re just trying to put your bags down and come up with a dinner plan! Here are a couple of games they can play together to get everyone focused and ready to settle down for the evening.

Go Find It!

This is a fun game that will help everyone calm down and focus. Give your child a few small training treats, like Zuke’s Puppy Naturals for puppies. Have your little one hide these treats in one room of the house (no peeking from the puppy!). To ensure success for your pup, the treats should be hidden on the ground or below waist height. Once the treats are hidden, invite the puppy back into the room and ask him to “find it.” In the beginning, the treats need to be pretty easy to find so the puppy learns that “find it” means to use his nose to find treats. You will know you can make the treats harder to find when you say “find it” and your puppy immediately puts their nose to the ground and starts sniffing around. This game can also be played outside in a yard, and even in the snow for a quick romp outside during winter!

Leave Some Bread Crumbs

This game is easy and appropriate for children as young as three. Start with small treats, like Zuke’s Mini Naturals. Depending on the size of your child’s hands, you can have them take a handful or put some in a small bowl. Then, have your child walk around the house while dropping one treat at a time behind them. This game teaches dogs how to appropriately interact with children and reinforces rules like keeping all four paws on the floor, not jumping up, and keeping their nose near the ground and not in anyone’s face. It also teaches them to stay behind or to the side of children instead of in front of them, which could result in a child accidentally being tripped. The key to this game is making sure that the treat reaches the ground first before the dog grabs it.

We played this game a lot with my friends’ children. When they would come to my house, my puppy would get so excited that she would sometimes scare the children! So, the second a child came through the door, they got a little cup of Zuke’s Mini Naturals to walk around and drop treats.

Hide-and-Seek

This is a great way to reinforce a recall. Give your kid a few treats and have them hide somewhere in the house (keeping it simple to start). Once they are hidden, have your little one call your dog. Once your puppy finds them, have your child ask for a ‘sit’ or a ‘down’ and then have them give a treat to reward good, calm behavior. This game helps with impulse control and reinforces a ‘sit’ or ‘down’ when your pup engages with kids, which can help curb unwanted jumping.

With any training involving kids, it’s important to always supervise. It’s best to keep the training sessions short and fun to keep puppy and child successfully engaged. A good way to keep training sessions succinct is to measure out 1/4-1/2 cup of treats (depending on your dog) and end the session when the treats run out.

One of the best ways to build a bond between dog and human is through training together. By having your kids participate in training the family dog, you are encouraging a safe and fun bonding time that will ultimately lead to a healthy and mutually respectful relationship between your new puppy and his new best friend.

3 Common Dog Hiking Injuries

The weather around Durango, Colorado has been steadily warming and my two dogs are fully aware that we are springing into summer. Every day, they sit eagerly by the door to my house, waiting none-too-patiently for their nice long romp outside. With warm weather’s arrival, this also means that I will soon be seeing an uptick in the number of trail-related injuries at my veterinary clinic. Let me share with you three common injuries that I see almost daily this time of year…ones that you might not have heard of!

Foxtails

These little grass seeds (or “awns”) can wreak a lot of havoc on dogs. Many species of both cultivated and wild grasses in the United States have small seeds that are sharply barbed on one end and fan out like a badminton shuttlecock on the other. They behave like fishhooks, penetrating in one direction, the barb preventing the seed from working its way back out. These little seeds may seem like a mere annoyance but they can burrow their way into feet, noses, eyes, ears, and even genitals (ouch!) after a dog walks near the offending grass. Some are easy to remove with your fingers or tweezers. Foxtails in ears may require special forceps to reach. If in the eye, they can painfully scratch the cornea and cause infections. If you see any foxtails on your dog’s coat, remove them quickly before they have a chance to puncture the skin or migrate into places that can cause medical problems. If your dog starts squinting suddenly, having forceful repetitive sneezing, or shaking/scratching repeatedly at his or her ears, take a peek in these places and see if you can easily pull out any visible foxtails…gently! If you really have to tug, leave it for your veterinarian.  

Torn Toenails

You wouldn’t think that trauma to a toenail would warrant a spot in this article, but let me assure you that these injuries are nothing to dismiss as a minor problem. Our human fingernails and toenails grow out of soft nailbeds under the cuticle. In dogs and cats, the claw grows out of the last bone in the toe. Overgrown nails or blunt injury to a toenail can cause the nail itself to lift up (or avulse) off of the surface of the toe. Painful, yes, and if left untreated, an infection can set up in the soft tissues around the nail and move upwards into the bone. This can lead to serious long-term complications.

Prevent this problem by keeping your dog’s nails trimmed short. If you notice bleeding from the toenail area or see a deep fissure or crack in the nail, wash the area, apply antibiotic ointment, and keep the area covered. I recommend seeing your veterinarian after you get home to see if oral antibiotics are also warranted.

Bite Wounds

Bite wounds not from wild animals, but rather other dogs, are what I see most often. Keep in mind that I absolutely love hiking with my dogs off-leash; it is one of their favorite activities on the entire planet! However, if I am hiking on a popular trail that I know will be crowded with other dogs, I will keep my pups leashed for their own protection. Your dog — like mine — might not have an aggressive bone in his or her body. But know that on the trail, if he approaches another dog who isn’t quite as friendly, your peaceful pooch might get the brunt of the other dog’s aggressive tendencies. At the very least have a leash with you on your hike that you can slip on if you need to. Also, to safely enjoy those leash-free romps, make sure to work on your pet’s recall. Check out “7 Steps to a Consistent Recall” for some training tips. Being able to pull your dog aside and having control over the encounter is critical to keeping things stress-free…the way you want your hike to be!

If your dog is in an unfortunate altercation, be aware that bite wounds are often worse than they first appear to be. Bites from sharp teeth can inject bacteria deep into the wound, while bites from larger, stronger jaws can cause deep tissue damage. If you are able to gently wash the wounds with water when on the trail, do so. Make sure to keep the area very clean, and cover any skin that is bleeding or lacerated with a bandage to keep out any dirt and debris. Reevaluate the area when you get home. If the wound is painful or drainage develops, see your veterinarian.

Potential injuries aside, the benefits to enjoying the outdoors with your dog greatly outweigh the risks! Get out there and seize the sunshine!

Disclaimer: This information is educational in nature and is not intended as a substitute for professional medical prevention, diagnosis, or treatment.

Life has gotten so busy, hasn’t it? It seems like there aren’t enough hours in the day to get everything done (because there aren’t!). It’s so easy to get swept up in the craziness of day-to-day life that it can be a challenge to carve out time for activities that help us stay energized.

But as we all know, it’s so important to try to prioritize things that make us happy. When we look back on a year, we won’t remember an extra hour spent at work or doing chores. What always stands out are the memories of special times spent with loved ones – and of course, that includes our dogs! A game of fetch or a hike in the woods is always fun, but for a truly rewarding experience, you might want to consider volunteering with your dog.

I know – that sounds crazy! Add something else to an already too-full schedule? But here’s the thing: there are ways to volunteer with your dog that require very little training or time commitment but are immensely rewarding.

I’ve certainly found that to be true. A few years ago, I had my Labrador retriever mix, Rio, certified as a therapy dog with Therapy Dogs International. All he had to do was pass the test – no special training classes were required (though I admit we did extra training to make sure he would obey “Leave it!” with tantalizing treats on the ground). Once he was certified, we spent our first “shift” shadowing an experienced therapy dog team at the local hospital and then started visiting on our own or with another team two nights a month. Visits typically last about an hour.

Rio loves meeting new friends, so he wags his tail constantly as lots of different people pet him and tell him he’s a good boy. It’s wonderful to see him bring smiles to the faces of patients, worried visitors and stressed hospital employees. In one hour, we might visit with a large family from the Southern Ute Indian Tribe, a young couple from out of state, children waiting to hear how their dad’s surgery went, a man with Down syndrome, a college student with a broken leg, and an older guy doing “laps” with his walker and a nurse pulling his IV stand. It’s really cool to watch my dog be an icebreaker for such a diverse group of people in such a short amount of time.

It also puts life into perspective. It’s hard to think a stress-inducing email is a true “crisis” when you meet people in physical pain or who are concerned about their health. I’ll never forget the woman in a hospital bed who lit up when she saw Rio trot into her room and asked incredulously, “Is that a dog?” Then she turned to her son and exclaimed, “I guess I CAN still see a little bit!” Rio kissed her hands, stared into her eyes, and wagged like crazy as she laughed and stroked his ears. Meanwhile, love filled my heart to the absolute brim and might have even splashed over a bit.

There are a lot of great therapy animal programs across the country for a variety of situations and settings. For instance, Therapy Dogs International (TDI) has a “Tail Waggin’ Tutors” program where children with literacy issues read to therapy dogs to bolster their confidence. TDI teams also visit nursing homes, assisted living facilities, safe houses for women and children fleeing domestic violence, funeral homes, and cancer centers. They also respond to natural disasters.

If helping your dog to become a therapy dog isn’t a good fit but you’d still like to volunteer with your dog, another option is opening your home to foster a puppy, dog or cat for a local animal shelter or rescue group. A home environment is less stressful than living in a cage at a shelter and helps prepare the animal for life in a “forever home.” Your dog helps the animal feel comfortable around pets and teaches good at-home behavior. Plus, your dog gets a new playmate out of the bargain, and you get the reward of knowing you’ve helped save a life. Everybody wins!

Ultimately, our schedules will fill up no matter what we do, but life is short. Prioritizing an activity that gives back to the community, strengthens our bond with our dogs, and brings us joy is well-worth a little extra time.

For more information about Therapy Dogs International, visit www.tdi-dog.org. 

Having a well-trained dog means that you can go places together and enjoy a great social life with your friends as well as fun adventures in the great outdoors that further enhance that wonderful human-animal bond.

Training really begins the moment you place a leash on your dog’s collar or harness.

“Consider it a connection tool,” says dog trainer Irith Bloom, CPDT-KSA, CBCC-KA, CDBC, CSAT, CBATI, FFCP, faculty at the Victoria Stilwell Academy. “Using positive reinforcement to teach your dog while on leash is one good way to help the dog stay connected with you even when other interesting things are happening.” Since dogs can find things humans do odd, and, walking on a leash is not intuitive, start leash training by teaching your dog that when the leash is around, they get treats.  Do the same thing with the harness.

Because it’s going to take a lot of incentivizing treats at this stage, and, as you progress, it’s important to reward with tiny, low-calorie treats. Zuke’s Mini Naturals have less than 3 calories per treat making them ideal for training. And with seven flavors— peanut butter and oats, chicken, beef, pork, salmon, rabbit, and duck— you can change it up or find your pooch’s favorite.

The Important Cues

There are nine key cues a dog needs to master to develop great life skills. This is important if you and your pooch are going to enjoy going places together.

1. Eye contact
2. “Stand” (Bloom points out that this cue is great for older dogs as “sit” and “down”can be difficult for a senior canine with mobility issues)
3. “Sit”
4. “Down”
5. “Come”
6. Loose Leash Walking
7. “Leave it”
8. “Stay”
9. Permission to greet signal (so the dog only greets people or dogs you want them to greet)
   “For me,” says Bloom, “the most important skills are paying attention to the human. In other words, the eye contact. Next, is settling. So ‘down’ is a good one for this, and then, coming when called.  Everything else is a bonus. For example, I can get a dog to ‘leave it by coming to me, or, to stay still, by settling into a down,” she explains.

Further, the person on the other end of the leash needs to learn a dog’s body language in order to let the dog control the pace of interactions.

“If your dog is quietly saying ‘no thank you’ with body language such as licking their lips, yawning, looking away, or walking away, let them leave the situation,” she advises.

Training Sessions

When first working with a new dog or puppy, it’s best to train in short sessions lasting five minutes or less. For one thing, most untrained dogs (including puppies) haven’t learned to focus on training yet.  That means a short session will get you better results because the dog is more likely to stay engaged the whole time. Training must be viewed as a fun activity.  A cheerful tone, a higher pitched voice and a smile all help to send the right message. Treat every time a dog repeats a behavior. Consider treats are as your dog’s paycheck. When you pay your dog well from the start, they learn new behaviors faster than if you only give treats here and there.  And add lots of praise. Say “yes” before you treat.

Train for no more than five or ten repetitions before taking a break. Consider playing with your dog between sets of training.

Where to Train

Like humans, dogs can get distracted. Distractions make it harder to focus on a lesson.  That’s why initial training should be done at home and not when you’re relaxing at a camp site or taking a break on a mountain trail with birds flying overhead and squirrels teasing your dog from a tree.  That would be the doggy equivalent of trying to learn a new physics concept while a brass band is playing in the back of the room.  Consequently, for the best results and stress-free sessions, start teaching new behaviors and cues in a quiet, distraction-free environment at home such as a bathroom or a small room that makes it easy for the dog to stick close to you. Once your dog has mastered the behavior, move to a slightly busier part of the house.  Gradually work your way up to practicing in the busiest room in the house while other people or animals are around.

Next, go just outside your front door (on leash).  Gradually work your way down to the street and then practice there.  Any time your dog stops responding to cues, or starts pulling on the leash, head back towards your door. Go back as far as you need until the dog is able to do the behaviors correctly again.

Final Training Tip

Never set your dog up for failure.  If you’re not sure if your dog is up for a particular challenge, build up to it gradually.  Don’t “test” your dog in a difficult situation without first making sure they are fully prepared.

Finally, end a session by giving your dog their favorite toy. That is a reward too. They will remember and eagerly await the next training session!

Every dog owner loves being able to enjoy the outdoors with their dog. When hiking with your dog, there are many things to think about while picking a trail: Is there access to water? How popular and busy is the trail? Are dogs allowed and do they have to be leashed? What type of terrain will you encounter? And the most important question — are you and your dog ready to take on a trail? Before hitting the trail with your pup, here are some general tips to help your training skills meet your adventure-seeking goals.

1. Build your dog’s recall skills.  

Your dog must be on leash if you do not have voice control over them, and in some wilderness areas, a leash is required regardless of your voice control. We can’t stress enough how important a solid recall is to your success in the backcountry. To help you and your dog get ready for bigger and better adventures, we recommend working up your recall to everything — both good things and bad. For tips, check out our post on recall training.

A great way to work on recall in a safe manner is to go on a hike with one of your dog’s friends (and preferably an owner you like as well) and work on recalling your dogs when they’re with each other. The dogs may be used to playing together the whole time, so switch up the rules. Have them work for you and add some loose-leash walking or heeling between play sessions. Your dog can learn that even if their bestie is right by their side, they can still engage with you and work for you.

2. Respect others’ space on the trail.  

If you are hiking with your dog, pull over for people going up or down (if they need to pass you). Not everyone is comfortable with dogs, especially families with children. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and just pull off the trail (on dirt or gravel, if possible) and put your dog in a sit-stay. Safety tip: If you live in rattlesnake country, toss some dirt or gravel into the area before stepping off trail to ensure there are no surprises.

Having your dog in a sit or down-stay is a great way to add settle work into your hikes and keep your dog engaged with you. Ask them for a down and wait for them to truly settle before you start moving again. Placing treats on the ground between their front paws will help your dog not stare at everyone going by, which can get them more amped up. This also reinforces the duration of the behavior; you don’t want your dog champing at the bit to stand up and then get what they want. Wait it out so they can learn to truly settle when you ask them for a sit or down.

3. Don’t allow your pup to say “Hi” to every person or dog. 

The trail generally isn’t an appropriate place for dogs to socialize and play with new friends. Try to find a wide-open space to pull off from the trail and let them safely play without risking a run in (literally) with other hikers or dogs. Be considerate of sensitive ecological areas and respect “Leave No Trace” ethics when going off trail.

To help your dog learn that not everyone needs a greeting, limit their interactions to a handful of people or dogs on your hike. When you pass someone they should not greet, celebrate with treats and play after you pass. By adding a celebration after the fact, you not only reward your dog for having the impulse control to not say hello, you are also making yourself more fun and reinforcing your relationship with them in the environment, and this is half the battle with a solid recall.  

4. Always have a leash handy.  

Find a small leash that fits into a pocket or pouch and always have it in your pack for your dog or other dogs you may encounter. It’s never bad to have a backup!

To help your dog learn that leashes happen and it’s not a bad thing, randomly leash them up on your hikes. Have them walk nicely with you for a little bit and then let them off leash without making a big deal out of it.